Cuenca, a city hanging between two gorges.

Cuenca was built on a rock spur between two rivers, the Júcar and the Huécar, which have each cut a deep gorge on either side. The houses reach the edge and some, the Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses), lean out over the void with their wooden balconies. Up top are the cathedral, the Plaza Mayor and an old town that can be explored on foot in a day; half an hour by car, the Serranía, with the Ciudad Encantada. It is almost the same distance from Madrid as from Valencia, and the AVE links it to both.

How do I get there from Madrid and Valencia?

By car, from Madrid it is about 165 km along the A-3 and A-40, around an hour and fifty minutes. From Valencia, about 200 km along the A-3 and A-40, around two hours. From Albacete, a little over an hour and a half; from Guadalajara, about two hours on national roads.

By train, Cuenca is on the Madrid – Valencia high-speed line. The station, Cuenca-Fernando Zóbel, is on the outskirts: city bus line 10 takes you to the bus station, and lines 1 and 2 go up to the castle, at the top of the old town. The Serranía and the Ciudad Encantada have no public transport.

Where do I park?

Don't put the Plaza Mayor into your satnav: the old town has narrow, one-way streets and almost no room. The practical thing is to leave the car down below, in the new part, and go up by bus or on foot, or drive up to the castle car park, at the very top, and walk down to the cathedral.

How much time do I need?

One day for the old town: the cathedral, the Casas Colgadas with the Museum of Abstract Art inside, the San Pablo bridge and a walk along the Huécar gorge. A second day for the Ciudad Encantada, which needs an hour and a half of walking plus the journey. With two nights there is time to eat without rushing and to see the old town lit up from the bridge.

A Sunday in Cuenca

In the morning, the cathedral on opening, at 10:00, and the Fundación Antonio Pérez, free on Sundays. Mid-morning, the Casas Colgadas and the Museum of Abstract Art, free, which closes at 14:30 on Sundays. You cross the San Pablo bridge to see the houses head-on and go down through the gorge. At lunchtime you have two options with a reservation: Raff San Pedro, with Cuenca cooking, or the tasting menu at Casas Colgadas. In the afternoon, if you are going by car, the Ciudad Encantada: in November the ticket office closes at 16:30, so don't cut it fine.

What is there to eat?

Cuenca cooking is shepherds' and river food. Ajoarriero, a paste of salt cod, garlic and potato, is eaten as a starter. Morteruelo is a hot pâté of game and spices. There is trout, lamb and game, and for dessert, alajú, a honey and almond sweet. To drink, wines of the province.

When should I go?

In spring, with the gorges green, and in autumn, with the Júcar's poplar groves yellow. Cuenca is high, at almost a thousand metres, and in summer it is easier to bear than the plain, although it heats up at midday. In winter it often freezes and the Ciudad Encantada can have snow or ice: bring boots. Holy Week, with its religious music, fills the city.