Albarracín, a reddish town hanging above the Guadalaviar.

Albarracín is a village of reddish plaster houses squeezed into a bend of the Guadalaviar, with a wall that climbs the slope to the Andador tower. It was the capital of a taifa kingdom, that of the Banu Razín, and later an independent lordship between Castile and Aragon. It can be explored on foot in a morning, but it makes a whole day if you add the cathedral, the castle and the Rodeno cave paintings, 4 km away. It is 40 minutes from Teruel and about two hours from Valencia.

How do I get to Albarracín from Teruel or Valencia?

By car. From Teruel it is 38 km along the A-1512, about 40 minutes. From Valencia, the town council estimates about two hours and about 180 km along the A-23 to Teruel and then the same road. From Madrid, a little over three hours and about 300 km via Guadalajara and Molina de Aragón. From Zaragoza you come down the A-23 to Teruel: allow two and a half hours.

Without a car it is difficult. There is a bus from Teruel to Albarracín Monday to Saturday: it leaves Teruel at 14:10 and returns from Albarracín at 8:50, for €3.90. On Sundays and public holidays there is no service, so a day trip there and back isn't possible. There is a taxi in the village 24 hours a day.

Where do I park?

Outside the old town, in one of the town council's five regulated car parks. The big one is San Antonio, with 401 spaces, at the entrance to the village; there are smaller ones on Calle San Antonio, Calle Puentes, the Parque Municipal and Calle Los Palacios. It costs €1 an hour and €4 for 24 hours, paid at the machine or with EasyPark. From there you walk up: the old town is narrow, steep stone streets, and isn't for cars or pushchairs.

What is there to see in Albarracín?

First, the village from the outside: the houses hanging above the gorge, Plaza Mayor with the 16th-century town hall and the Casa de la Julianeta, which looks about to fall onto the street. To understand what you are looking at, the guided visit to Albarracín and the cathedral by the Fundación Santa María combines the walk and the cathedral in 1 h 45, for €8.50. It is the only way to get into the cathedral.

The castle is the old Andalusi alcazaba, on the rock: 50 minutes with a guide and €4.50. Afterwards, go up on your own to the Andador tower for the view of the whole village wedged into the river. If you sleep here or come from Teruel in the afternoon, the sunset visit with legends leaves at 18:00 from Plaza Mayor.

Outside the village, the Pinares de Rodeno Protected Landscape covers more than 6,800 hectares of pines and red sandstone rocks with shelters of Levantine rock art. The rock paintings walk from El Navazo is 2.3 km and can be done with children. Further out, on the sierra road, you have horse rides in Tramacastilla and a multi-adventure circuit in Torres de Albarracín.

How much time do I need?

A well-used day is enough for the village and the Rodeno: guided visit in the morning, lunch and the paintings in the afternoon. With a night you see it without the crowds, with the sunset light on the wall and the legends visit. Two nights make sense if you add the sierra, Teruel or a long lunch at El Batán.

When should I go?

In spring and autumn the temperature is good for walking and the stone turns red at the end of the afternoon. Winter is cold, the village is at over 1,100 metres and it can freeze, but it is also the season of black truffle on the menus and of a village without queues. In summer midday is hot and the weekends in August and long weekends fill up: arrive before 11:00 or after 17:00. On Sundays there are guided visits only in the morning, at 10:30 and 12:00.

Where do I eat on Sunday?

El Rincón del Chorro is open at midday from Friday to Sunday, also in low season, with two sittings, at 13:00 and 15:00: cardoon with almonds and truffle, Albarracín kid, ternasco lamb. Book days ahead. For a special meal, El Batán, in Tramacastilla, has a Michelin star and is open on Sunday. La Peculiar is closed on Sunday and Monday, but is a good Friday or Saturday dinner.

Where do I sleep?

Inside the old town, the Posada del Adarve, up against the wall, or Casa de Santiago, opposite the church of the same name. With children, a dog or a motorhome, the Camping Ciudad de Albarracín, open all year and with bungalows.