Albarracín: cathedral in the morning, red pines in the afternoon.

Albarracín fits into a Sunday if you arrange it the opposite way to how anyone else would: the cathedral first thing, because on Sundays the guided visits only run in the morning, and the Rodeno in the afternoon, because the walk to the paintings has no opening hours. You get there in 40 minutes from Teruel and in about two hours from Valencia.

The Day, Hour by Hour

8:15 · Departure from Valencia. About 180 km along the A-23 to Teruel and the A-1512 to Albarracín, about two hours. From Teruel set off at 9:45: it is 38 km. Park in the San Antonio car park, at the entrance to the village, at €4 a day, and walk up.

10:30 · Town and cathedral with a guide. The Fundación Santa María leaves from the information centre, next to the cathedral, at 10:30 and 12:00 on Sundays. For 1 h 45 it tells the origins of the city and its walls, passes through the Plaza Mayor and the Casa de la Julianeta and ends inside the cathedral, which cannot be visited any other way. It costs €8.50; under-10s free. Book on its website.

12:30 · The Torre del Andador. On your own, climb beside the wall to the highest point. It is short but steep, and from the top you see the whole village tucked into the bend of the Guadalaviar. If you are short of breath or with small children, swap the climb for the castle, with a guide.

13:30 · Lunch at El Rincón del Chorro. On Calle del Chorro, open since 1980. In the low season it is open at midday from Friday to Sunday, with sittings at 13:00 and 15:00: ask for the first if you do not want to be late for the Rodeno, or the second if you linger in the old town.

16:00 · Rodeno rock paintings. 4 km along the forest track to the car park for the paintings. The Navazo circuit is 2.3 km, about 35 minutes on foot, among pines and red sandstone rocks with shelters of Levantine rock art. With stops, an hour and a half. If you want a guide, InspirAlbarracín does the visit for €10; check on its website whether there is a session that Sunday.

17:45 · Return. You are in Teruel around 18:30 and in Valencia around 19:45.

What to Order

It is cooking from the Sierra de Albarracín: Albarracín kid, Aragón ternasco lamb, Teruel ham and, from December to March, cardoon with almonds and black truffle. Say when you book if anyone is vegetarian: they adapt dishes.

With Children and Dogs

Under-10s do not pay for the guided visit. The old town is not for pushchairs: take a baby carrier. The Rodeno is the children's moment: rocks to scramble on and a short path. With a dog, the village and the Rodeno, on a lead; the cathedral and the castle, no.