Fez el-Bali Medina, along Talaa Kebira

What it is

Fez el-Bali is the old medina of Fez and one of the largest car-free historic cities in the world: about 300 hectares of alleys, workshops, mosques, fondouks and souks. It was born of two cities: the one founded by Idris I in 789 on the right bank of the Fez river and the one founded by his son Idris II in 809 on the other bank, later joined by the Almoravids. It has been a World Heritage site since 1981, together with Fez el-Jdid.

It is not a museum: people live and work here. Goods are moved by donkeys and handcarts, and when you hear "balak" you have to step aside.

The Talaa Kebira route, step by step

Talaa Kebira is the longest and main street of the medina. It runs from the west gate to the Qarawiyyin quarter, almost always downhill and with souks and shops on both sides. It is the simplest way to cross the medina without getting lost:

1. Bab Boujloud. You enter by the blue gate. In the little square inside, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira part: take the Kebira, the big one; ask if in doubt.
2. Bou Inania madrasa and, opposite, the facade of the Dar al-Magana water clock. First stop, a few minutes away.
3. The descent. Tiled fountains, babouche stalls, butchers, wood-fired bakeries, copper and weaving workshops.
4. Place Nejjarine. A small detour takes you to the carpenters' square, with its tiled fountain and the Nejjarine fondouk, an old caravanserai turned into a museum of woodcraft.
5. Al-Attarine madrasa and the Qarawiyyin gate, at the end of the street. It is the religious heart of the medina.
6. Place Seffarine, that of the coppersmiths, where copper is hammered.
7. Chouara tannery, a little further down, towards the river.

From the bottom of the medina, do not climb back up on foot. Leave towards Place R'cif, next to the river, where the medina's only road arrives, or towards one of the lower gates, and take a petit taxi back.

How long it takes

Half a day, about four hours, with the madrasas, the tannery and stops. If you only want to go down Talaa Kebira to Al-Attarine, an hour and a half. Start early: at nine many shops are already open and it is still comfortable to walk.

Guide, yes or no

It is not compulsory, but the first day it helps a lot. Fake guides offer themselves mainly at Bab Boujloud and near the tanneries, and usually end up at a shop. Ask your riad for an official one: you have it at official medina guide. Plan-it Morocco organises a full-day visit with a private guide, from 9:00 to 16:00, with pick-up at the riad, which includes Bou Inania, the Qarawiyyin, the Nejjarine fondouk, Al-Attarine, the Mellah and the Marinid tombs; the price is requested on its website.

When to go

In the morning, on a weekday. On Friday at midday many workshops close for prayer. In spring and in October it is better for walking; in July and August it exceeds 35 °C and the bottom of the medina gets oppressive.

What to bear in mind

• Footwear. The streets are polished stone, sloping, and slippery in the rain.
• Orientation. If you get lost, downhill leads to the centre; uphill, to the gates. Ask a shopkeeper, not someone who offers in the street.
• Money. Inside almost everything is in cash; the cash machines are at the gates.
• Clothing. Shoulders and knees covered to enter the madrasas.
• With children and a pushchair. Slopes, steps and crowds: better a baby carrier. Teenagers like getting a little lost and haggling.

Eating and sleeping

For a rest near the gate, Café Clock or Le Tarbouche. Sleeping inside the medina lets you see its empty streets at dusk: Riad Laaroussa, Riad Fes or, on a small budget, Funky Fes.