Bou Inania Madrasa

What it is and why it matters

The Bou Inania madrasa is the largest of the Marinid Quranic schools in Fez and the only one with the status of a Friday mosque. It was built by the sultan Abu Inan Faris: works began on 28 December 1350 and finished in 1355. That is why it has its own brick minaret, on the north-west corner, something rare in a Moroccan madrasa. It has been restored many times: in the 17th century after an earthquake, under the sultan Moulay Slimane between 1792 and 1822, and the decoration again in the 20th century.

It is a couple of minutes from Bab Boujloud, at the start of Talaa Kebira, so it is usually the first visit in the medina.

What you see

• The courtyard. Large, paved in marble, with a fountain and an ablution pool in the centre and galleries around. Each wall has zellige below, carved stucco in the middle and carved cedar above.
• The classrooms. On the sides of the courtyard, two classrooms with cedar doors and wooden domes.
• The prayer hall. South of the courtyard, separated by a small water channel, with arches on marble and onyx columns. It is a place of worship and non-Muslims cannot enter: you look from the courtyard.
• The students' cells, on the upper floor.
• The water clock. On the way out, opposite, in the street, is the Dar al-Magana: a cedar facade with 13 brackets and 12 windows that formed a hydraulic clock. Its bronze bowls were removed in the 20th century and the structure was restored at the start of this century. Look at it from the street.

Hours and price

It is open every day, but closes during prayers and, above all, on Friday at midday. Published hours do not agree: some guides give 9:00 to 17:00 and others close at midday for a few hours. Entry is cheap, between 10 and 20 DH according to guides, in cash and at the door. There is no online sale. Allow half an hour.

Getting there

Cross Bab Boujloud inwards and enter by Talaa Kebira; the madrasa is a few minutes away and is recognised by its minaret. If you come by taxi, ask to be dropped at Bab Boujloud.

Rules, children and accessibility

It is an active place of worship: shoulders and knees covered, a low voice, no food inside and respect if people are praying. Go outside prayer times so as not to find it closed. With children it is a short visit. The courtyard has steps at the entrance and the marble is slippery; the upper floor is not always open.

Combine it

In the morning, start here and then go down Talaa Kebira through the Fez el-Bali medina to the Al-Attarine madrasa. Comparing the two helps you understand the Marinid style. For lunch nearby, Café Clock is a few steps away.