Fez el-Bali Medina, along Talaa Kebira
4 hIn comfortable shoes
Half a day downhill along Talaa Kebira, from Bab Boujloud to the Qarawiyyin and the tanneries, in Fez's largest car-free medina.
AccessTrain from Tangier or flight from Spain
From TangierAbout 4 h by train
Best timeMar · Apr · May · Oct
Minimum time2 days
PassportValid for more than 6 months
Overall difficultyEasy, but you get lost
Non-Muslims cannot enter the Qarawiyyin mosque. You can look at the courtyard from the door, without crossing it. The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas can be visited. Shoulders and knees covered.
What to do
What to do in Fez
Each plan says how long it takes, who it's for and whether you can book.
Chouara Tannery
30 minEveryone who can stand the smell
The dye pits where hides are tanned by hand in Fez el-Bali; seen from the shop terraces, best in the morning.
Bou Inania Madrasa
30 minEveryone
A Marinid madrasa of 1350–1355 next to Bab Boujloud, with its own minaret and a courtyard of marble, zellige and cedar; visited in half an hour.
Plan the trip
Fez, step by step
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
When to go to Fez
In spring and in October: mild days and good light on the rooftops. In July and August it often exceeds 35 °C and the tanneries smell stronger. In winter it rains on some days and the nights are cold: ask for heating in the riad.
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How you travel
Fez your way
Choose how you're travelling and we'll tell you where to stay, how to get around, where to eat and which services you'll need. We only show the ways of travelling that make sense here.
Train, riad and on foot
Fez is better done without a car than with one. The train from Tangier reaches the station and from there a petit taxi drops you at a medina gate. Inside, everything is on foot.
60–110 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepRiad Laaroussa, in the medina
- Getting aroundONCF train from Tangier, about…
- Where to eatCafé Clock and Le Tarbouche…
- ServicesTaxi or riad pick-up from…
Where to sleep
- Riad Laaroussa, in the medina
- Riad Fes, if you want a pool
- Medina Social Club, budget and central
Getting around
- ONCF train from Tangier, about 4 h
- Petit taxi between the station, Bab Boujloud and Batha
- Grand taxi or excursion for Volubilis
Where to eat
- Café Clock and Le Tarbouche, on Talaa Kebira
- Bissara and bread stalls in the morning
Services
- Taxi or riad pick-up from the airport
- The riad stores your luggage until the train
Palaces with views over the medina
In Fez luxury is a restored palace with a pool in the upper part of the medina, from where you walk down to the souks and come back by taxi.
250–600 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepRiad Fes, from Relais &…
- Getting aroundHotel pick-up at the airport
- Where to eatNUR, Najat Kaanache's chef's menu
- ServicesHammam and spa at the…
Where to sleep
- Riad Fes, from Relais & Châteaux
- Palais Faraj, with a terrace over the old city
Getting around
- Hotel pick-up at the airport
- A private official guide for the medina
- A car with a driver to Volubilis and Meknes
Where to eat
- NUR, Najat Kaanache's chef's menu
- Dinner at the riad itself, with Fassi cooking
Services
- Hammam and spa at the hotel
- Cookery classes at some riads
Hostel in a riad and a free medina
Walking the medina costs nothing, and eating on the street not much either. Fez is among the cheapest cities of the trip if you sleep in a hostel.
25–40 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepFunky Fes, with breakfast
- Getting aroundTrain from Tangier and on…
- Where to eatLe Tarbouche and the stalls…
- FreeThe medina and Bab Boujloud
Where to sleep
- Funky Fes, with breakfast
- Medina Social Club, mostly private rooms
Getting around
- Train from Tangier and on to Marrakesh
- Supratours to Merzouga, about 10 h
- CTM to Chefchaouen
Where to eat
- Le Tarbouche and the stalls on Talaa Kebira
- Bissara and harira for a few dirhams
Free
- The medina and Bab Boujloud
- The Marinid tombs at sunset
How much does it cost?
People2
Nights3
Who you're with
Fez for whoever you're with
A trip with a toddler is not the same as one with a teenager. Pick yours to see what works and what to bear in mind.
The medina in short doses
With children of different ages, Fez works if you alternate medina and open spaces. Half a morning of alleys, lunch on a rooftop and the afternoon in a garden or at a viewpoint.
- What works bestChouara tannery: the colours and…
- Where to sleepA riad with a family…
- Where to eatCafé Clock, with simple dishes…
- Keep in mindNo pushchair: steps, slopes and…
What works best
- Chouara tannery: the colours and the smell are unforgettable
- Fez el-Jdid and the Mellah, wider, flatter streets
- Volubilis, Roman ruins to run about among mosaics
Where to sleep
- A riad with a family room near Bab Boujloud
- Palais Faraj, with a car right to the door
Where to eat
- Café Clock, with simple dishes and music at night
Keep in mind
- No pushchair: steps, slopes and donkeys; use a baby carrier
- Donkeys and handcarts do not brake: teach children to step aside at "balak"
- In summer Volubilis has no shade: go first thing
What to do as a family
A medieval city that really works
Teenagers find Fez more impressive than a museum, because everything is real: workshops, tanners, donkeys carrying gas cylinders. Give them a map and a meeting point.
- What works bestTalaa Kebira, from top to…
- Where to sleepA riad with a rooftop…
- Where to eatCafé Clock, with a terrace…
- Keep in mindMadrasas get boring if you…
What works best
- Talaa Kebira, from top to bottom, with them choosing the way
- The tanneries, from a terrace
- Marinid tombs at sunset
Where to sleep
- A riad with a rooftop in the medina
- Funky Fes, if they are travelling with friends
Where to eat
- Café Clock, with a terrace and a young atmosphere
- Snails and skewers at the stalls at Bab Boujloud
Keep in mind
- Madrasas get boring if you string them together: one is enough
- Fake guides target the youngest: have them say "no, thank you" and keep going
- A phone without a connection gets lost: download a map
What to do with teenagers
Where to stay
Where to stay without a carin styleif you're backpacking
We show you what suits the way you travel.Change how you travel
Riad Fes
Why we like it: Several palatial houses joined together in the upper part of the medina, with courtyards, a pool and taxis nearby.
Palais Faraj Suites & Spa
Why we like it: On the edge of the medina, with the old city in front of you from the terrace and a car right to the door.
Riad Laaroussa
Why we like it: An old riad with a green courtyard and a dozen rooms, a few minutes' walk from the souks. Lots of stairs: ask for the ground floor if climbing is hard.
Hostel
Funky Fes
Why we like it: A hostel in a traditional house, near Batha, with a travellers' atmosphere and breakfast on the terrace.
Hostel
Medina Social Club
Why we like it: A renovated riad with mostly private rooms, for anyone who wants a hostel atmosphere without bunk beds.
Services for this trip
Areas, for any way of travelling
| Area | Who it's for | Average night |
|---|---|---|
| Fez el-Bali, next to Bab Boujloud | First visit, everything on foot, taxis nearby | €€ |
| Fez el-Bali, Batha and Ziat | Large riads and palaces, quieter | €€€ |
| Ville Nouvelle | Hotels with parking, near the station | € |
Where to eat
Where to eat in Fez
From set lunch menus to Michelin stars. We mark the price level and what to order at each place.
Le Tarbouche
What to order: Moroccan salads, tagine or chicken pastilla.
Small · at number 43 on the medina's main street
NUR
What to order: the tasting menu of about ten courses, which changes every day according to the market.
From chef Najat Kaanache · dinners only, Tuesday to Sunday · by reservation only
Map
Everything on the map
The places to stay and services on the map are the ones for the way you travel. Turn on the layers you want and tap a point to see its details.
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Tips
Worth knowing first
- 1Enter by Bab Boujloud and go down Talaa Kebira
It is the main street and leads, downhill, to the Al-Attarine madrasa and the Qarawiyyin.
- 2Go to the tanneries in the morning
From nine to eleven the vats are full of colour and the light is better. They will give you a sprig of mint for the smell.
- 3Sleep in the medina, not the Ville Nouvelle
The medina at night, empty, is another city. And you save two taxis a day.
- 4Take care during Ramadan
Expected from 8 February to 9 March 2027: many medina restaurants open only after sunset.
- 5Wear shoes with grip
The streets are polished stone, sloping, and slippery in the rain.
Local tip
Go up at sunset to the Marinid tombs, on the hill to the north. You see the whole medina at your feet when the calls to prayer begin.
We'd skip it
The leather and rug "cooperatives" that someone offering to guide you in the street takes you to. The prices include their commission and the visit drags on much longer than you wanted.
How do you get there from Spain?
There are direct flights to Fès-Saïss from several Spanish cities: Vueling flies from Barcelona and Ryanair has routes from Spain (check on its website which operate on your date). The airport is about 15 km away; the taxi to the medina is negotiated: agree the price before getting in. Bus 16 goes to the station for very little.
By land, cross by ferry from Tarifa to Tangier Ville, about an hour, or from Algeciras to Tangier Med, an hour and a half. From Tangier to Fez it is about four hours by train, with direct trains or a change at Kenitra. It is a comfortable and cheap journey.
You need a passport valid for more than six months; the national ID card is not valid (checked in November 2026).
How not to get lost in the medina
Fez el-Bali has no cars, and goods are moved by donkeys and handcarts: when you hear "balak", step aside. Two long streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, run down from Bab Boujloud to the heart of the medina. If you get lost, downhill leads to the centre and uphill to the gates.
You will be offered guiding every few metres, especially near Bab Boujloud and the tanneries. The fake guides end up at a rug or leather shop. For the first day, an official half-day guide is worth it: your riad arranges it.
Money, haggling and Fridays
Dirhams are withdrawn at the cash machines in the Ville Nouvelle and at those at the medina gates. Inside, almost everything is in cash. In the souks you haggle; at the tanneries, the shop that lets you up on its terrace expects you to look at its goods, not necessarily buy. You tip for the view, about 10–20 dirhams. On Fridays at midday many workshops close for prayer.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Fez?
Two days for the medina, the tanneries and the madrasas. Three if you want to do Volubilis and Meknes on an excursion.
Can you go to Fez without a car?
Yes, and it is best. You arrive by train or plane and the medina is toured on foot. For Volubilis, a grand taxi or an excursion.
Do you need a guide?
It is not compulsory, but the first day it helps. Make sure they are official, accredited, and have your riad hire them. Tell them you don't want shops.
Can non-Muslims enter the mosques in Fez?
No. Neither the Qarawiyyin nor any of the others. They can enter the madrasas, which were schools, such as Bou Inania and Al-Attarine.
How long does it take from Fez to Marrakesh?
About six and a half hours by direct train, or a flight. By car it is more than 500 km.
And from Fez to the desert?
To Merzouga it is about 470 km through the Middle Atlas, about 7–8 hours by car. Supratours has a daily bus of almost ten hours.