Al-Attarine Madrasa and the Qarawiyyin Gate

What it is and why it matters

The Al-Attarine madrasa is a Quranic school that the Marinid sultan Abu Said Uthman II had built between 1323 and 1325. It takes its name from the Attarine souk, that of the spice sellers and perfumers, at whose entrance it stands, at the end of Talaa Kebira and a few steps from the Qarawiyyin mosque. It is small, but its courtyard is among the richest in Fez: almost every surface is decorated.

It has two floors around a central courtyard. Below, zellige (cut tile mosaic), carved stucco, muqarnas and carved cedar wood; at the back, the prayer hall, with the mihrab and a wooden dome, which keeps its original bronze lamp. Upstairs, 30 cells where the students slept: the foundation was designed for about 50 or 60 students, plus imam, muezzins and teachers. The bronze doors at the entrance are replicas; the originals are in the Dar Batha museum.

What you see

You enter through the bronze door and you are in the courtyard, with its fountain in the centre. Notice the order of the decoration: zellige below, stucco in the middle, cedar above, each material with its own pattern. You can look into the prayer hall and, if it is open, go up to the floor of cells, narrow and simple, which contrast with the luxury of the courtyard.

The Qarawiyyin gate

A few steps away is the Qarawiyyin, one of the oldest mosques in the Islamic world. Tradition says it was founded by Fatima al-Fihri in 857 or 859; an inscription attributes it to Dawud ibn Idris in 877. Non-Muslims cannot enter. From outside its north gate, Bab al-Ward, you see the courtyard with its stucco facade and the wooden lattice of the entrance to the prayer hall. Look without crossing the threshold and step aside if someone goes in to pray.

Hours and price

The madrasa is open every day, but closes during the Friday midday prayer. Entry is cheap: guides give between 10 and 20 DH, and there is no online sale; you pay cash at the door. The published hours do not agree, so do not leave it until late afternoon. Allow about 30 to 45 minutes.

Getting there

From Bab Boujloud, go down Talaa Kebira to the end: the madrasa is at its eastern end, already in the spice souk. It is a long walk downhill among shops, more than half an hour with stops. It is the heart of the Fez el-Bali medina: from here Place Seffarine and the Chouara tannery are close.

Rules, children and accessibility

It is a religious building: shoulders and knees covered and a low voice. Do not climb on the fountain or touch the stucco. With children it is a short visit and easy to understand. The entrance has steps and the floor is polished marble, which is slippery; the upper floor is reached by a narrow staircase. It is not wheelchair accessible.