Winery tastings on the northern slope, in Castiglione di Sicilia

On the northern slope of Etna, between Passopisciaro and Castiglione di Sicilia, the vines grow on black stone terraces over ancient lava flows, at altitudes that elsewhere in Sicily would be mountain country. The wineries receive visitors by reservation: you see the vineyards and the cellar and taste the Nerello Mascalese reds and the Carricante whites, the wines of the Etna denomination.

What it is and why it matters

Etna was one of the first designations of origin in Sicily, recognised in 1968, and its production is spread over villages on the volcano's skirts such as Castiglione di Sicilia, Randazzo and Linguaglossa. What makes it different is the soil: volcanic sand and rock from lava flows of different periods. On the northern slope the plots are identified by contrade, the old localities, and each has its own character depending on the flow it sits on.

A visit here is, above all, a walk among vines on lava, with the volcano above you.

Two wineries with visits

• Planeta, Sciaranuova estate. The estate is in the Sciaranuova contrada, at about 850 m, among flows from 1614. It grows Carricante, Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Pinot Noir and Riesling. It offers several experiences: a vertical tasting of Etna, a journey through old vintages, a wine tasting with breads and cheeses, a cooking class at the winery and a wine, art and landscape experience. Planeta's website lists each experience separately, with its own booking.
• Cottanera, contrada Iannazzo. A winery on Strada Provinciale 89 in Castiglione di Sicilia, offering tasting itineraries to get to know the house, the territory and its winemaking tradition, in an informal, family-friendly setting. Book by phone on +39 391 393 9073 or by email at [email protected].

Neither publishes prices on its experiences page: you confirm them when booking. Allow about two hours for vineyard, cellar and tasting.

Getting there

Both wineries are on the road that runs along the northern slope between Randazzo and Linguaglossa, through Passopisciaro. The practical way is to drive from Catania or Taormina. If you are going to taste at more than one, sort out who drives or hire a transfer: there are winding roads between one winery and the next.

Without a car, the Circumetnea runs along the northern slope between Randazzo and the coast; if you are going by train, ask the winery when booking how to get there from the nearest station.

When to go

All year, by reservation. The grape harvest, between late September and October, is the busiest time in the vineyards; spring brings green vines and mild temperatures. In winter it can be cold and foggy at that altitude, but visits continue by reservation.

Who goes and what to bring

The tastings are for adults. Bring comfortable footwear for walking among the vines, which have volcanic sand and stone underfoot, and a layer: at 800 m it gets cool in the afternoon. If you are seriously interested in wine, ask when booking for a tasting by contrada or of old vintages.

How it fits into your day

Combine a morning at a winery with Randazzo, the medieval village built of lava stone, or with a train ride along the northern slope. If the volcano is what you are after, the southern slope concentrates the excursions: the Funivia dell'Etna and the summit craters with a guide leave from the Rifugio Sapienza.