A day of wine on Etna, vineyards on lava in the morning and a long table in Solicchiata.

Etna's north slope is wine country: between Passopisciaro, Solicchiata and Castiglione di Sicilia the vines grow on black-stone terraces over old lava flows, at altitudes that elsewhere in Sicily would be mountain. This plan is simple: a winery visit with tasting in the morning, Etna cooking at Cave Ox and back to Catania in mid-afternoon. The important thing is to book both and to have someone who does not drink do the driving.

Getting there from Spain

By plane to Catania, with direct flights from several Spanish cities, and by hire car. The plan leaves from Catania: on the motorway towards Messina, Fiumefreddo exit and the 120 road via Linguaglossa, in a little under an hour you reach Castiglione di Sicilia. If you want to sleep in the area, Linguaglossa is nine minutes from Cave Ox.

The day, hour by hour

9:00 · Leave Catania. On the A18 towards Messina to the Fiumefreddo exit and then along the 120 road, which climbs among vines towards Randazzo.

10:00 · Tasting at a winery on the north slope. Choose one when booking. At Planeta, the Sciaranuova estate is at about 850 m, among flows from 1614, with carricante and nerello mascalese; it offers a vertical Etna tasting, a tour of old vintages or a tasting with breads and cheeses, each with its own booking on the website. Cottanera, in the Iannazzo district, organises its tasting itineraries by phone (+39 391 393 9073) or by email. Neither publishes the price. Allow about two hours.

13:00 · Lunch at Cave Ox. On Via Nazionale in Solicchiata, a few minutes away. Order the fusilloni with Bronte pistachio (€18), the maccheroni with ragù (€16) or the bistecca etnea by weight to share, or a wood-fired pizza. The house cellar has Etna wines. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 15:00.

15:30 · Return. Via Linguaglossa and the motorway; in Catania at about 16:30.

If it is Tuesday or you want to stay

On Tuesday Cave Ox is closed: eat at the Ristorante Veneziano, at the entrance to Randazzo, which is open at lunchtime Tuesday to Sunday and is known for its mushrooms and Nebrodi black pork. If you prefer not to go back to Catania, sleep at Shalai, in Linguaglossa, and dine in its Michelin-starred restaurant.