The two capitals of Champagne, a morning under Reims and an afternoon above the avenue in Épernay, without a car.

Reims and Épernay share Champagne between them: in Reims are the coronation cathedral and the great houses with their crayères; in Épernay, the avenue where the houses line up their mansions one after another. They are separated by half an hour of train on the line that crosses the Montagne de Reims, between vineyards, and both have a direct train to Paris. This plan takes advantage of that geometry: you enter through Reims, leave through Épernay, and nobody has to drive.

Under Reims, above Épernay

10:00 · Mumm. The house of the Cordon Rouge has its cellars on the rue du Champ de Mars, a short walk from the station. The Cordon Rouge Experience lasts an hour and a half, tours the galleries and ends with a glass, for €30; with rosé, the Pinot Noir Celebration costs €42. Book on its website, in Spanish, and request the guided visit in Spanish at [email protected]. From November to 21 December it opens Thursday to Monday.

12:15 · The Montagne de Reims train. Half an hour from Reims to Épernay, crossing the Montagne de Reims between vineyards. From Épernay station to the avenue de Champagne is ten minutes on foot: straight on through the town hall park.

12:45 · Lunch at Bulles & Bonheur. At number 71 on the avenue, a couple of winegrowers serve seasonal menus paired with their own champagne. At midday, the Rose menu costs €50; the Élodie, €95. Book.

15:00 · The Castellane tower. A 66-metre, eight-storey tower that can be seen from all over the town. You climb 237 steps with a guide, in groups of ten at most, and at the top, with Épernay, the Marne and the vineyards before you, there is a glass of Brut Croix Rouge: €20, or €30 with two champagnes. The Castellane cellars are closed to the public for now: you visit the tower.

16:30 · The Champagne wine museum. In the Château Perrier, on the avenue itself, the museum tells the story of the region from geology and archaeology to the craft. From November to March it opens Wednesday to Sunday until 18:00, for €10; under-13s do not pay.

18:30 · Train to Paris. Direct from Épernay, an hour and twenty minutes to Gare de l'Est.

Other houses, another order

If you prefer to go deeper, Pommery descends 116 steps to its Gallo-Roman crayères, with a glass from €30. In Épernay, Moët & Chandon shows its galleries with two champagnes from €48, a few metres from Bulles & Bonheur. To see the vineyards up close without driving, the Estafette van of My Vintage Tour Company leaves from the tourist office, with a tasting and a guide in Spanish, from €49.

If you stay the night

The avenue has two hotels right by the cellars: La Villa Eugène, the former Mercier mansion, and the Hôtel Jean Moët, with twelve rooms. With one night, the next day can be Reims cathedral and Pommery.