Chips, a boat and the swans of the Minnewater, a day in Bruges at children's pace.

Bruges works well with children because everything is close, there are no cars in the centre and almost every street ends at a bridge over a canal. What doesn't work is trying to see everything: the belfry, three museums and an eight-kilometre route end in tears. This plan does four things that little ones enjoy, with little walking between them, and returns to Brussels mid-afternoon, before they run out of steam.

The morning: chips and canals

08:45 · Train to Bruges. An hour from Brussels, with no changes. At the station, bus 1 or 2 drops you in the centre in a few minutes.

10:00 · Frietmuseum. The chip museum, in a Gothic building two minutes from the Markt, is short and visual: where the potato comes from, how to fry it the Belgian way and a life-size chip shack. It takes about 45 minutes and costs €12 for adults, €7 for ages 3 to 11 and nothing for under-3s. Pushchairs are admitted, but the museum doesn't recommend them: a baby carrier is better with the very small.

11:15 · Boat on the canals. Ten minutes' walk to the Rozenhoedkaai, and half an hour sitting in an open boat, passing under the bridges. It is what children remember most about Bruges. €15 for adults and €9 for ages 4 to 11; you pay at the landing stage.

Lunch without watching the clock

12:30 · Brasserie De Halve Maan. On the Walplein, ten minutes away, the brewery's brasserie has children's dishes, waffles for dessert and a terrace among copper kettles where the little ones don't disturb anyone. The kitchen is open from 12:00 to 15:00 every day, no booking.

The afternoon: the swans of the Minnewater

14:00 · The beguinage and the Minnewater. Five minutes away, the beguinage is a large lawn courtyard surrounded by white houses, in silence, and behind it is the Minnewater lake, with swans that come to the water's edge. It is free and there is no hurry: let them run around the park before the train.

15:45 · Train back. The station is ten minutes' walk. In Brussels before five, with time for a nap or a bath.

What to change according to age

With under-4s, the boat is the best of the day; the chip museum is quick and you can drop it if they are tired. With children aged 6 to 11, add Choco-Story, on the Sint-Jansplein, which ends with a demonstration and a tasting; the combined ticket with the Frietmuseum costs €13.50 per child. With children over 7 and teenagers, climb the belfry on the Markt: 366 steps, with a slot booked online. If you come back another day, the Kruisvest windmills, on the eastern rampart, have lawns and not a tourist in sight.

For a classic day with adults, see the plan with belfry, boat and brewery; if you fancy pedalling, the bike day to Damme along the canal is flat and suits children who already ride alone.