Berceo, the village of the first poet in Castilian

Berceo is San Millán's neighbouring village, about 2 km from Yuso, in the valley of the River Cárdenas and 727 metres above sea level, in the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda, at the foot of Pico San Lorenzo. It gave its name to Gonzalo de Berceo, the first poet of known name to write in Castilian, and according to the Town Hall, San Millán, the saint who gives the monasteries their name, was also born here. It is a short, quiet walk among stone houses, vegetable gardens and two shaded parks, and it combines very well with a visit to Suso and Yuso.

Two illustrious neighbours

Gonzalo de Berceo was born in the village around 1195 and died around 1264. He was educated with the monks of the monastery of San Millán, was a cleric and is the great name of the mester de clerecía. He wrote in cuaderna vía works such as the "Milagros de Nuestra Señora", the "Vida de Santo Domingo de Silos" and the "Vida de San Millán".

San Millán was born in Berceo in the year 473, according to the tradition recorded by the Town Hall. He was a shepherd and, at the age of twenty, withdrew to the Riscos de Bilibio, near Haro, as a disciple of the hermit San Felices. He later returned to these mountains, was parish priest of Berceo and ended up retiring to the caves of Suso, where he died in 574.

What to see in the village

The main building is the church of Santa Eulalia de Mérida, consecrated on 16 September 1886 and paid for by a son of the village, Domingo Peña Villarejo. In the chancel it has a neoclassical altarpiece with a canvas of the saint's martyrdom, and it keeps a Gothic image of the Virgen de Barrio Espeso. The town hall and the old schools were built at the same time and with the same patron. As you walk you will also see the Casa Grande, a three-storey noble house with two coats of arms, and the wash house, restored and still in use.

Walks from Berceo

The Ruta de Gonzalo de Berceo leaves from the Town Hall square, climbs to Suso by the Los Llanos path, descends to Yuso and returns to Berceo by the Santa María path, beside the Cárdenas. It is the prettiest way to reach the monasteries without a car. Another option is the circular Three Springs route, which leaves from the Fuente del Crucero, climbs Monte Cerrolombo to the Fuente de los Frailes, and returns by the Cereceda spring. The GR-93, which crosses La Rioja from Ezcaray to Cornago, also passes through the area.

At the entrance to the village on the LR-205 is the Parque Gonzalo de Berceo, and on the way out towards San Millán, the Parque San Millán; both have shade, tables and a fountain, ideal for a picnic with children. Dogs may go on a lead along the streets and paths.

Festivals and getting there

The main festivals are the first Sunday of October, the Virgen del Rosario, and the second, La Octava, with dancers in the procession. On the Sunday after 14 August the Festival del Pachurro is held, a bread pintxo with quail egg, pepper and chorizo. Berceo is 16 km from Nájera on the LR-205 and 17 km from Santo Domingo de la Calzada on the LR-206. From Camping Berceo, on the edge of the village, you can walk to the monasteries in about 10 minutes.