In Vino Veritas Restaurant (Hostería San Millán)

In Vino Veritas is the restaurant of the Hostería San Millán, in a wing of the Yuso monastery itself, a minute from the ticket office. It serves traditional Riojan cooking with modern touches and seasonal produce, with wines from the D.O.Ca. Rioja. It has two spaces: the dining room and a gastrobar in the monastery's old kitchen, which now works as a café and serves local dishes with Rioja wines. You can eat here without staying at the hotel.

The weekend menu: €35

At midday, on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, a set menu of €35 is served, drinks not included, with several dishes to choose from at each course. This autumn's has as starters Anguiano caparrones with cabbage and "sacramentos", Riojan-style potatoes, pochas beans with clams and prawns, artichoke carpaccio with wild mushrooms or duck and foie cannelloni. For main course, lamb chops, oven-roast lamb, oxtail in red wine, Riojan-style cod, entrecôte, grilled cuttlefish or oven-baked turbot. And for dessert, brioche torrija, cheesecake, coulant or dulce de leche flan, among others.

The evening menu

Dinner, every day, is à la carte. This season's has starters from €20 to €45, such as Iberian ham or oxtail croquettes, artichokes with foie or chestnut and boletus cream; fish from €22 to €30, from Riojan-style cod to monkfish puff pastry in green sauce, and turbot for two for €60; and meats from €20 to €45, including lamb chops with Tricio peppers (€27), roast lamb breast (€29) or a quarter of suckling pig (€45). Homemade desserts cost €8, among them curd with walnuts and San Millán honey or a zurracapote sorbet. The wine list includes local wines, such as those of Martínez Alesanco, in Badarán.

There are also tasting menus and vegan menus, which must be ordered 24 hours ahead. Group menus come with a bottle of wine for every four people.

When you can eat at midday

Outside summer, at midday it opens only on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, from 13:30 to 15:00. From June to August it serves lunch every day; the rest of the year, on weekdays, you need to call and ask. Dinners are every day from 20:30. Always book: by phone on 941 373 277, by email or on TheFork. For groups of more than 15 they ask for a card, and if you cancel with less than 24 hours' notice they charge 10%.

Eating between the two monasteries

The weekend fits in without moving the car: Yuso in the morning and the menu at 13:30. If you come on a Saturday or Sunday this winter, you can go up to Suso first, with a booking, and come back down to eat. If you sleep at the hotel, dinner is in the same building as your room at the Hostería San Millán.