Monfragüe, vultures at eye level.

Monfragüe is a quartzite sierra split by the Tagus and the Tiétar in the centre of the province of Cáceres, between Plasencia, Trujillo and Cáceres. It was a natural park from 1979 and has been a National Park since 2007, with 18,396 hectares of Mediterranean scrub, dehesa and cliffs above the water. What sets it apart is its birds: one of the largest colonies of black vulture in the world, the Spanish imperial eagle, the black stork, the Egyptian vulture, the eagle owl and hundreds of griffon vultures that settle on Peña Falcón, opposite the Salto del Gitano viewpoint, within binocular range.

How do you get there from Cáceres?

By car, in a little over an hour: about 90 km along the A-58 to Trujillo and the EX-208 towards Torrejón el Rubio, or along the A-66 to Plasencia and the EX-208 southwards. From Plasencia it is about 25 minutes; from Trujillo, about 40. From Mérida and from Salamanca, reckon about two hours along the A-66; from Madrid, about three hours along the A-5 and then via Toril and the La Bazagona road, or via Plasencia. The EX-208 crosses the park from north to south and passes through Villarreal de San Carlos, the only village inside, and the Salto del Gitano. There is no scheduled bus that drops you at the viewpoints: without a car, the only practical way to see it is a guided outing.

Where do you park?

At each viewpoint there is a signposted car park: Salto del Gitano, castle, Tajadilla, La Báscula, Portilla del Tiétar. The park rule asks you to stop only in them and not on the verge, because some viewpoints are on public roads and wildlife crosses. In Villarreal de San Carlos you park beside the visitor centre, from where the walking routes start. Motorhomes can spend the day, but not park for more than two hours in a row between 22:00 and 6:00: for sleeping, the Camping Monfragüe, on the Plasencia road, has pitches and an overnight area.

How much time do you need?

One day covers the essentials by car: the Salto del Gitano in the morning, the castle, lunch in Villarreal or Torrejón and in the afternoon the eastern itinerary to the Portilla del Tiétar. With two days, the second is for walking: the yellow route to the Tajadilla or the green one to the Cerro Gimio are easy; the red one to the castle, of 16 km, takes the whole day. If you are really interested in birds, the third morning is for a guided 4x4 or birding outing, which reaches tracks closed to private cars and knows where to look for the imperial eagle.

When to go?

March to May is the best time: the raptors breed, the black stork and the Egyptian vulture have returned, the dehesa is green and the park organises its free guided walks. October brings the stag rut, from 15 September to 15 October, and mild temperatures. Winter is quiet and good for the black vulture and the imperial eagle, with short days. July and August are very hot: set out at dawn and leave midday for a boat trip from Serradilla or a canoe on the Tiétar, which are done just outside the park, because inside, swimming and boating are forbidden.

What can you do?

First, the viewpoints, which are free and beside the car. Then, the self-guided walking routes: three without a permit from Villarreal and another three, through the reserve zone, with an online permit. The castle, of Arab origin, is climbed by a tower of 134 steps. To go further there are the authorised companies: 4x4 routes from €40, five-hour bird outings from €50, the rut in autumn and, in summer, canoe and boat. The park offers free walks and bird outings, by reservation, from March to June and in October.

Can you go with a dog?

Yes. The park rules admit domestic animals as long as they are on a lead and under control, on the routes and at the viewpoints. They cannot swim in the rivers, like anyone else. In summer, think of the heat and of the fact that there is no water on the routes.