Sigüenza, downhill from the castle to the cathedral.

Sigüenza is a small town of rust-coloured stone that runs downhill from a castle to a cathedral. At the top, the bishops' castle, now a Parador. At the bottom, the Cathedral of Santa María, fortress-like from outside and, inside, home to the tomb of the Doncel, a knight reading as he reclines on his sepulchre. Between the two lie medieval streets, small squares and Romanesque churches. You can see it on foot in a day, and it is an hour and a half from Madrid, a short detour off the A-2.

How do you get there from Madrid and Guadalajara?

By car, along the A-2. From Madrid you leave at kilometre 104 and drive 25 km along the CM-1101: about 130 km and a little under an hour and a half. From Guadalajara it is about 75 km and some 55 minutes. From Zaragoza, take the A-2 as far as Alcolea del Pinar, then 20 km along the CM-110. From Soria it is around an hour by road.

Without a car, regional trains from Madrid-Chamartín stop at Sigüenza. The station is at the end of the Paseo de la Alameda, in the lower part of town, and from there you walk up to the old town. On some Saturdays in spring and autumn the Tren Medieval also runs, with actors on board and a guided visit included; Renfe publishes the dates for each season.

Where to park?

At the top, next to the castle. At the end of Calle Valencia there is free car parking; in the Plaza del Castillo, regulated parking is paid for with the Telepark app. From there you walk down to the cathedral along Calle Mayor without needing the car again. If you would rather not drive into the old town, there is more room in the lower part, near the Alameda.

How much time do you need?

A full day. In the morning, the guided visit to the castle and the medieval town, or a self-guided walk from the Plaza Mayor up to the castle; lunch at midday; in the afternoon, the cathedral and the Diocesan Museum. With a night you can add the Casa del Doncel, the church of Santiago and a side trip to the Barranco del Río Dulce Natural Park, beside Pelegrina, a few kilometres away, with its limestone gorges.

A Sunday in Sigüenza

Sunday works well. The cathedral is open from 10:30 to 19:30 with no midday closure, and the Casa del Doncel and the church of Santiago are both open in the morning, with a joint ticket of €4. Start at the top: park by the castle, have a coffee in the Parador café and walk down through the little square of La Cárcel and San Vicente to Santiago and the Casa del Doncel. For lunch, the Asador Medieval or nöla, with a booking. In the afternoon, the cathedral with its Doncel and the Diocesan Museum, which opens from 16:00 to 19:00. The tourist office, in the Plaza Mayor, closes at 14:00 on Sundays, so call in during the morning to pick up a map.

What is there to eat?

Cooking from La Alcarria and the sierra: roast lamb, kid and suckling pig, migas, cured meats and cheeses. The roasts must be ordered in advance at the asadores. For a special meal, Sigüenza has chef-led restaurants such as El Doncel.

When to go?

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Sigüenza stands at more than a thousand metres, so summer is bearable and winter is very cold. In summer there are fiestas and medieval days, and in spring and autumn the Tren Medieval runs on some Saturdays.