Sunday in Ordesa: beech forest and waterfalls in the morning, lamb at midday.

From Huesca, the Ordesa valley is an hour and twenty minutes away, and the Estrecho waterfalls route is the one that anyone can do: an hour out along the valley floor, among beeches and firs, with a hundred metres of ascent, and back along the other bank of the Arazas river. You eat mountain roast in a stone house dating from 1831 in the old part of Torla and, in the afternoon, take a flat stroll in Bujaruelo, the next valley along, beside the Romanesque bridge of San Nicolás.

The Day, Hour by Hour

7:00 · Departure. From Huesca, take the A-23 to Sabiñánigo, the Petralba tunnel to Fiscal and the Ara valley to Torla. On compulsory-bus days, leave the car in the free car park in Torla and take the shuttle up: €6 return, free for under-10s. The rest of the year, drive up to the Pradera and arrive before nine: the car park fills up on Sundays.

8:45 · Arripas, Cueva and Estrecho waterfalls. At the far end of the Pradera car park you take the wide Soaso path. You enter the beech forest, cross the Cotatuero ravine and reach the viewpoint over the Arripas waterfall. Before turning back, go to the Cueva and the Estrecho ones, where the Arazas squeezes between the rock. Cross the river above Arripas and return along the left bank: two hours in total without repeating the path. If you have morning to spare and are fit, continue to the Cola de Caballo.

13:30 · Lunch at El Duende. On Calle de la Iglesia, in the old part of Torla, a few minutes' walk from the bus car park. It has been a restaurant since 2002, with the stone and vaults of the house. It serves lunch from 13:30 to 15:30. Bookings are by phone only and they hold the table for fifteen minutes.

16:00 · Bujaruelo valley. From Torla, the road and then a track climb to San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, at 1,338 metres, outside the National Park and with no compulsory bus. A 3.4 km circuit along both banks of the Ara, with the Romanesque bridge and the chapel: fifty minutes without hurrying.

17:30 · Return. In Huesca around seven.

What to Order at El Duende

The roast shoulder of milk-fed ternasco lamb with potatoes or the ox chop for two, around €35. Main courses run around €17 to €22. There is also grilled fish and venison loin with red berries. For dessert, the house fritters. If you have been walking all morning, order early: by three it fills up with people coming down from the valley.

With Children, with a Dog and with More Energy

The waterfalls route works with children from about four. Dogs enter the National Park always on a lead, and on the bus they travel in the hold for €2 return. If you have the legs, swap the waterfalls for the Cola de Caballo via the Gradas de Soaso: two and a half to three hours each way and 550 metres of ascent; that day, leave Huesca at six and eat in the Pradera whatever you have brought. To see the canyon from above without so much effort, Miradores de Ordesa goes up by 4x4 from Broto, with a guide, from €49.50.