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What to do · Lisbon

Livraria Bertrand in Chiado, the world's oldest operating bookshop

Bookshop · 30 min · free entry · Rua Garrett, open daily until 22:00, with guided tours by reservation

InformationFrom €0 the self-guided visit; guided tours by reservation
From
€0 the self-guided visit; guided tours by reservation
Duration
30 min
Season
All year, daily
Who it's for
Readers and the curious

What it is

The Bertrand bookshop in Chiado is a bookshop on Rua Garrett, in the heart of Chiado, which Guinness World Records recognises as the oldest operating bookshop in the world. The founding date that Bertrand itself accepts is 1732, based on a medallion bearing the founder's name, although recent research points to bookselling activity from 1727 or earlier. After the 1755 earthquake it reopened on Rua Garrett in 1773, and it has not moved since.

It is not a museum: it is a working bookshop, and you walk in without a ticket at any opening time.

Opening hours and price

Entry is free. The bookshop opens every day, from 9:00 to 22:00 according to the chain's website. The café, at the same address, has its own hours: Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 20:00 and Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 to 13:00. These details come from the bookshop's page; check them if you are going late, especially on public holidays.

Guided tours

Bertrand runs guided tours of the bookshop with advance booking. The website's pages give different schedules (Thursdays at 11:00 and 17:00 on one, the second Saturday of the month on another), so write to the bookshop or check its events listing before counting on them. For an ordinary visit you do not need one.

Getting there

It is at 73 to 75 Rua Garrett, a few steps from Camões square and Baixa-Chiado metro station. From the Baixa you walk up Rua Garrett; if you arrive on tram 28, the Chiado stop is a minute away. Combine it with a stroll around Chiado and down towards the Tagus, or with the Alfama viewpoints.

Photos and rules

You can photograph the interior without a problem, but it is a shop with customers: do not block the aisles or the tables. We have not seen a more specific photo rule on its website.

Tips

  • Go first thing At 9:00 the rooms are almost empty and you can see the vaulted ceilings properly.
  • Do not expect a museum It is a working bookshop. What you see is what is on sale.
  • Ask about the guided tour If you are interested in the history of the place, write beforehand: it runs by reservation.

Frequently asked questions

Do you pay to go into Bertrand in Chiado?

No. Entry to the bookshop is free.

Why is it "the oldest in the world"?

Because Guinness World Records recognises it as the oldest operating bookshop in the world; Bertrand gives 1732 as its founding year.

What time does it open?

Every day from 9:00 to 22:00 according to the bookshop's website.

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

The Belcanto dining room, with stone arches and dressed tables© Belcanto

Belcanto

Restaurant · Lisbon · €€€€

What to order: the tasting menu with Portuguese wine pairing, if it is your special dinner of the trip.

Prawns, langoustines and lobsters in the seafood display© Cervejaria Ramiro

Cervejaria Ramiro

Restaurant · Lisbon · €€€€

What to order: some clams Bulhão Pato and the seafood by weight; ask for the toasted bread with butter.

Pastéis de Belém on a plate, with the house's blue tiles behind© Pastéis de Belém

Pastéis de Belém

Bakery · Lisbon · €€€€

What to order: the pastéis fresh from the oven, with cinnamon and icing sugar on top, and a coffee.

To stay nearby

A private double room with blue walls© Home Lisbon HostelHostel

Home Lisbon Hostel

Baixa, Rua de São Nicolau · Dormitories and private rooms · Mamma's dinner

Why we like it: A family-run hostel in the heart of the Baixa, with dormitories and private rooms and home-cooked dinner by Mamma, the owner's mother.

The hotel terrace with views over the rooftops of Alfama and the Tagus© Memmo AlfamaSmall hotel

Memmo Alfama

Alfama, 5 min from the Sé · Terrace with views of the Tagus · Wine bar

Why we like it: A small hotel at the top of Alfama, beside the cathedral, with a terrace and wine bar above the rooftops and the Tagus. Guided walk included if you book direct.

The palace gardens, with lawns and the pools© Pestana Palace LisboaHotel

Pestana Palace Lisboa

Valle Flôr Palace · Gardens a national monument · Outdoor and indoor pool · Spa

Why we like it: A 19th-century palace turned five-star hotel, with gardens declared a national monument, pools and spa, between Alcântara and Belém.