Pastéis de Belém

The home of the pastéis

It was here in 1837 that pastéis de Belém began to be made, with a recipe that the house attributes to the neighbouring Jerónimos Monastery. It is still the same family business, on Rua de Belém, five minutes' walk from the monastery and the river. It is a custard tart, but only those from this house may be called that: thin puff pastry and egg custard, eaten warm, with the cinnamon and icing sugar that you find on the table.

Counter or table

There are two queues: the counter one, for takeaway, and that of the inner rooms, where you sit and order from a waiter. The one outside looks long but moves quickly; if you want to sit, go in and find a place in the tiled rooms at the back, which are many more than they seem from the street. As well as the pastéis they sell sweet and savoury items, Belém quince jelly and, at Christmas, bolo-rei and bolo-rainha.

When to go

Open every day from 8:00 to 21:00, and in summer, from 1 July to 30 September, until 22:00. On 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January it closes at 19:00. The quietest time is first thing or late in the afternoon. Combine it with a visit to Belém: tram 15 and the Cascais trains stop nearby.