Tram 28, all of Lisbon along a narrow track.

It is a scheduled tram, not an attraction: locals use it and it goes through the narrowest streets in the city. That is why it is worth it, and why it is full by mid-morning.

What it is

The 28 is a tram line run by Carris, Lisbon's municipal transport company. It operates with the small yellow two-axle trams, the only ones that fit the slopes and tight bends of Graça and Alfama, where the track runs a hand's breadth from the façades. It links Martim Moniz with Campo de Ourique, next to the Prazeres cemetery, over about 7 km in between 40 and 50 minutes, and passes through the city's most visited districts on the way.

There is no guide, no audio and no stops designed for tourists: it is public transport, with locals getting off to shop and getting on with bags. That is its charm, and also the reason it makes no sense to stand squashed in: if you don't sit down, you see nothing.

Tickets and price

Paying on board, the ticket costs €3.30 and is valid for a single journey. It is much cheaper with the Navegante or Viva Viagem card loaded before boarding: €1.90 for the one-hour ticket, which lets you connect with the metro and Carris buses, or €1.72 per journey with zapping credit. If you are going to get around a lot during the day, the Carris and Metro 24-hour pass costs €7.25. The cards are bought and loaded at the machines in any metro station.

When boarding, validate the card on the reader by the front door. With the Lisboa Card the tram is also included.

Where it goes

After leaving Martim Moniz, the tram climbs towards Graça and goes down through Largo das Portas do Sol and the Santa Luzia viewpoint, which are the stops for walking to St George's Castle and the viewpoints of Alfama. It continues past the cathedral to the Baixa, climbs to the Chiado and Camões, passes São Bento and Estrela and ends at Campo de Ourique.

The route we suggest goes in that direction and starts early:

When to go

All year. What matters is the time: before 9 in the morning or as evening falls you ride seated; between 10 and 5 the queue at Martim Moniz grows and the carriage is full at the Alfama stops. In summer, first thing it is also less hot inside.

If you only want the photo of the tram between the houses, you do not need to get on: wait at Portas do Sol or on the slope by the cathedral.

With children and with reduced mobility

With children it is a short ride they like, but the carriages are narrow and have high steps at the door. It is not wheelchair accessible, and with a pushchair you will have to fold it. In that case, the Alfama district is better seen on foot from the viewpoints, and the Baixa and Chiado by metro.