Feira da Ladra at Campo de Santa Clara

What it is and what you see

The Feira da Ladra is Lisbon's flea market and the best known in the city. It is set up in Campo de Santa Clara, on the edge of Alfama, behind the monastery of São Vicente de Fora and a short step from the National Pantheon. Turismo de Lisboa traces it back to 1272; since then it moved several times before settling here. Time Out speaks of more than three hundred years of history in this spot: the figures vary, but it is one of the oldest markets in the city.

What is sold is everything and almost all of it used: antiques and old junk, second-hand objects, vintage clothes, vinyl records, loose tiles, kitsch pieces and some crafts. Many sellers spread their goods on the ground. Between the stalls you see murals by well-known artists and, from the edges of the field, the Tagus and the white dome of the Pantheon.

The name has several explanations and none is confirmed: that many of the objects were stolen, that old junk had lice (“ladro”), that it comes from “Saint-Ladre”, the medieval fairs of Paris, or from “lada”, an old word for the riverbank.

When

All year, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, from about 9:00 to 18:00. On the other days there is no market. Saturday usually has more stalls. The hours are approximate and change with the weather.

How to get there

Campo de Santa Clara is at the top of Alfama, between São Vicente and the Pantheon. Tram 28 stops a couple of steps away; you can also walk from the Baixa, uphill, or come down from the Graça viewpoint. It is best not to come by car: the streets of the district are narrow and steep.

Price

Entry is free: you only pay for what you buy. Haggling is part of the game. Bring cash and small notes, in case the stall does not accept cards.

Practical tips

Go early. Time Out says it plainly: set your alarm. First thing the sellers are still setting up, there is more to choose from and it is easier to walk around. Bring a cloth bag if you plan to buy and check carefully what you are buying before paying: it is a flea market, not a shop.

With children it is a short, entertaining walk, but the cobbles and slopes of Alfama make a pushchair awkward. With a dog, Saturday's crowd makes it uncomfortable.

Combine it with the district. From the market you can go up to the viewpoints of Alfama, visit the National Pantheon or continue to St George's Castle. If you are on tram 28, it is a good place to get off and continue on foot.