Memmo Alfama
Why we like it: A small hotel at the top of Alfama, beside the cathedral, with a terrace and wine bar above the rooftops and the Tagus. Guided walk included if you book direct.
Duration2 nights
From Badajoz2 h 30 by car
TimeAn hour behind Spain
Best timeMar – Jun · Sep – Nov
Getting thereCar along the A6
The plan
The plan, hour by hour
Designed to leave Badajoz on Friday at 16:00. All the times in the plan are Lisbon times, an hour behind Spain. Book your Jerónimos ticket in advance, as it has a fixed time.
Friday
- 117:30Arrival and Alfama viewpoints at sunset
Drop your bags and take the tram up to Graça. From Senhora do Monte, walk down past the Graça viewpoint to Portas do Sol and Santa Luzia: about two kilometres downhill, free, with the sun setting behind the city.
- 220:30Seafood at Cervejaria Ramiro
Garlic prawns, clams à Bulhão Pato and shellfish by weight at the 1956 seafood restaurant on Avenida Almirante Reis. Book on TheFork; without a reservation, expect a queue at dinnertime. Closed on Mondays.
Saturday
- 109:30Jerónimos and the Belém waterfront
The monastery's Manueline cloister, with a timed entry from €18, and then the Belém Tower beside the Tagus, from €15. Under-13s do not pay. Allow three hours.
- 212:30Pastéis de Belém
The 1837 pastry shop, a few steps from the monastery. The queue at the door is for takeaway; inside there is usually a table.
- 316:00Tram 28 to Campo de Ourique
Seven kilometres from Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique via Graça, Alfama, the Baixa and the Chiado. Board at the terminus to get a seat; the on-board ticket costs €3.30.
- 418:00São Jorge Castle
Eleven towers and a wall that you can walk all the way round above Alfama. Open daily; admission costs €15 and is free up to age 12. In the late afternoon the light falls on the river.
Sunday
- 110:00Boat from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas
Ten minutes across the Tagus, with Lisbon ahead of you, for €2 each way. It sails every 15 or 20 minutes. On the other side, a stroll along the waterfront and back on the next boat.
- 215:00Back to Badajoz
You set off after lunch and arrive around 18:30 Lisbon time, which in Badajoz is 19:30.
Lisbon is the European capital closest to Badajoz: two and a half hours of motorway from the Caia border, almost all of it on the A6, between cork oaks and plain. That makes it a Friday-to-Sunday getaway that needs neither a plane nor an early start. This plan spreads two nights across the hilly districts of the centre, the Belém of the Manueline monuments and the river, which in Lisbon is so wide it looks like the sea. You sleep in Alfama or near Belém, leave the car parked and do not touch it again until Sunday.
How do you get there from Badajoz?
By car, along the A6 to Marateca and from there along the A2 and the 25 de Abril Bridge, or along the A12 and the Vasco da Gama Bridge. Portuguese motorways have tolls and the two bridges only charge on entering Lisbon: you do not pay on the way back. When you cross the border, the clock goes back an hour. If you leave Badajoz at 16:00, you reach Lisbon around 17:30, Portuguese time.
The most convenient thing is to sleep where you can leave the car. The Pestana Palace, between Alcântara and Belém, has paid parking for guests; Monsanto campsite has pitches and a bus to the centre. Do not drive in Alfama: the streets are single-lane and there is almost no room. If you choose a hotel in the centre, look for a public car park before you arrive and continue on foot, by tram or by metro.
Where to sleep?
| Accommodation | Area | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Memmo Alfama | Alfama, next to the cathedral | Couple, on foot, with a terrace over the rooftops |
| Pestana Palace | Between Alcântara and Belém | Car and pool, 19th-century palace |
| Home Lisbon Hostel | Baixa | Small budget, with home-cooked dinner |
| Lisboa Camping & Bungalows | Monsanto, 8 km away | Motorhome, tent or bungalow |
What if I have an extra day?
Sintra is about 30 km from Lisbon: romantic palaces in the hills, the Pena and Quinta da Regaleira. It needs a whole day and timed tickets; see the Sintra page. On the other side of the Tagus, the Arrábida hills combine still-water beaches and boats to see the Sado dolphins, and lie on the way if you return to Badajoz along the A2.
With children
The Oceanário in the Parque das Nações is the best card to play in the rain: more than 500 species around a big central tank, open daily, from €25.50 for adults. The tram and the boat to Cacilhas also work for them, short and with views. The viewpoints on the way down are not tiring, but with a pushchair they are a bad idea: steps and cobbles.
Map
The stops, in order
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Plan the trip
Lisbon, step by step
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
When to go to Lisbon
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Best timeGood timeLow season
How you travel
The same break, your way
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Lisbon without a car, by metro, tram and boat
In Lisbon a car is a nuisance: the streets in the centre are narrow, parking is scarce and expensive, and public transport reaches everything, including the airport and the train to Sintra.
70–140 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to stayHome Lisbon Hostel, in the…
- Getting aroundTram 28
- Where to eatPastéis de Belém, beside the…
- ServicesAsk Me Lisboa, on Praça…
Where to stay
- Home Lisbon Hostel, in the Baixa, with private rooms and dormitories
- Memmo Alfama, beside the cathedral and the tram 28 stop
Getting around
- Metro from the airport; 24-hour pass at €7.25
- Tram 28 and the boat to Cacilhas with the same card
- Train from Rossio to Sintra
Where to eat
- Pastéis de Belém, beside the Jerónimos
- Cervejaria Ramiro, beside Intendente metro
Services
- Ask Me Lisboa, on Praça do Comércio
Lisbon on a backpack, on a small budget
Lisbon has very well-kept hostels and cheap transport. With a one-day pass, a dormitory bed and food from a tasca, the city works out quite a bit cheaper than other capitals.
40–75 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to stayHome Lisbon Hostel, in the…
- Getting aroundOn foot through the Baixa…
- Where to eatPastéis de Belém, a cheap…
- ServicesMetro from the airport
Where to stay
- Home Lisbon Hostel, in the Baixa, with Mamma's home-cooked dinner
- Lisboa Camping, in Monsanto, if you bring a tent; bus 714 to the centre
Getting around
- On foot through the Baixa, Alfama and the Chiado
- A 24-hour metro and Carris pass for €7.25
Where to eat
- Pastéis de Belém, a cheap breakfast
- Mamma's dinner at the hostel
Services
- Metro from the airport
- Ask Me Lisboa for maps and timetables
Lisbon at an easy pace: palace, terrace and two stars
The most refined Lisbon is split between a palace with a garden near Belém and the small hotels of Alfama. Book a special dinner well ahead: the good tables go fast.
From €350per person per day, approximate
- Where to stayPestana Palace, a 19th-century palace…
- Getting aroundTaxi or ride-hailing between districts…
- Where to eatBelcanto, two Michelin stars, in…
- ServicesAsk Me Lisboa, for tickets…
Where to stay
- Pestana Palace, a 19th-century palace with gardens, pools and spa
- Memmo Alfama, with a terrace and wine bar above the Tagus
Getting around
- Taxi or ride-hailing between districts; on foot within Alfama and the Chiado
Where to eat
- Belcanto, two Michelin stars, in the Chiado
- Seafood at Cervejaria Ramiro
Services
- Ask Me Lisboa, for tickets and the Lisboa Card
Lisbon by car, parked and on foot
If you arrive from Spain by car, the key is to sleep where you can leave it and not touch it again until you head for Sintra, the Arrábida or the Alentejo.
80–160 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to stayPestana Palace, with paid parking…
- Getting aroundLeave the car and use…
- Where to eatPastéis de Belém, ten minutes…
- ServicesAsk Me Lisboa, on Praça…
Where to stay
- Pestana Palace, with paid parking for guests
- Lisboa Camping, in Monsanto, with a pitch and a bus to the centre
Getting around
- Leave the car and use the metro, tram and bus
- Electronic tolls on the motorways: register your number plate when you enter Portugal
Where to eat
- Pastéis de Belém, ten minutes from the Pestana Palace
- Cervejaria Ramiro, which has its own parking
Services
- Ask Me Lisboa, on Praça do Comércio
Fly to Lisbon and walk from day one
Lisbon is the easiest destination in Portugal to reach by air from Spain: there are direct flights from almost all the big cities, and Humberto Delgado airport is inside the city, about 20 minutes by metro from the centre. You need no car either to arrive or to get around; you only need one if you carry on to the Arrábida or the Alentejo.
- Getting thereLisboa Humberto Delgado (LIS), with…
- Getting aroundMetro, tram, bus and the…
- Where to stayHome Lisbon Hostel, in the…
- ServicesAirport metro, from 6:30 to…
Getting there
- Lisboa Humberto Delgado (LIS), with the metro (red line) to the centre with one change
- Ask Me Lisboa tourist office in arrivals, from 7:00 to 22:00
Getting around
- Metro, tram, bus and the boat to Cacilhas with the rechargeable card
- 24-hour Carris/Metro pass for €7.25
- A hire car at the airport only if you are going to leave the city
Where to stay
- Home Lisbon Hostel, in the Baixa, five minutes from the metro
- Memmo Alfama, if you arrive by day and want to start with Alfama
Services
- Airport metro, from 6:30 to 1:00
- Ask Me Lisboa on Praça do Comércio
How much does it cost?
People2
Nights2
Where to stay
Where to stay without a carif you're backpackingin styleif you're drivingif you're flying
We show you what suits the way you travel.Change how you travel
Pestana Palace Lisboa
Why we like it: A 19th-century palace turned five-star hotel, with gardens declared a national monument, pools and spa, between Alcântara and Belém.
Home Lisbon Hostel
Why we like it: A family-run hostel in the heart of the Baixa, with dormitories and private rooms and home-cooked dinner by Mamma, the owner's mother.
Lisboa Camping & Bungalows
Why we like it: A campsite in the Monsanto forest park, 8 km from the centre, with pitches, a motorhome service area, bungalows and a pool in summer.
Services for this trip
Where to eat
Where to eat in Lisbon
Cervejaria Ramiro
What to order: some clams Bulhão Pato and the seafood by weight; ask for the toasted bread with butter.
Belcanto
What to order: the tasting menu with Portuguese wine pairing, if it is your special dinner of the trip.
Takeaway and markets
Pastéis de Belém, Lisbon
Tips
Worth knowing first
Local tip
Jerónimos is closed on Mondays and fills up at weekends: buy the timed ticket before leaving Badajoz and choose the first slot of the morning.
We'd skip it
Driving through the centre. Alfama, Graça and the Chiado are single-lane hills with trams: park as soon as you arrive and get around on foot, by tram, metro and boat.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take from Badajoz to Lisbon?
About two and a half hours by car from Badajoz, almost all on the A6. When you cross the border you lose an hour on the clock: in Portugal it is an hour earlier.
Are there tolls?
Yes. The A6 and the A2 or A12 are toll roads, and the 25 de Abril and Vasco da Gama bridges charge on entering Lisbon, not on leaving.
Where do I leave the car?
In your hotel's car park if it has one, like the Pestana Palace's, or in a public car park before entering the old districts. In Alfama there is no room.
What do I do if it rains?
Oceanário, Jerónimos and Pastéis de Belém, all under cover. The cobbles on the hills are slippery when wet: take the tram up and leave Alfama for a dry spell.
Is it worth it with two nights?
Yes, for the centre and Belém. If you want Sintra or the Arrábida, add a day: each one needs a whole day.