Tenuta Pilastru, Countryside Estate with Spa beside the Li Muri Necropolis, in Arzachena

Tenuta Pilastru is the other face of the Costa Smeralda: the Gallura countryside, among junipers, wild olive trees, dry-stone walls and granite boulders. The estate has 150 hectares five kilometres from Arzachena and between twelve and fifteen from the sea, according to the page, and grew up around a stazzo, the traditional Gallurese farmhouse, dating from 1840. It is run by the Filigheddu family, who began raising livestock in 1980 and in 2005 commissioned the architect Savin Couelle to design the buildings that now stand around the old house. It is the base for anyone who wants beach in the morning and silence at night, without the coastal prices.

The rooms

There are 49, of stone and wood and with country-style furniture, spread among the greenery and in the shade of old trees. The Classic rooms, 20 to 25 m², were the first and face the garden with their veranda; the Superior, about 25 m², have a terrace over the countryside; the Superior Comfort, 28 m², large terraces with sofas under the wild olive trees. The Family Rooms, about 30 m², have a double bed and single beds. The Suites are 50 m² with a living room, and the three Lodge Deluxe, detached, up to 55 m². There are also apartments with kitchens, such as the Quercia, with two bedrooms with bathroom.

The restaurant and the spa

The restaurant occupies the old stazzo, among granite boulders. It cooks dishes from the Gallurese tradition with meat and wine from the estate itself and pasta rolled by hand every day, with vegetarian and gluten-free options. In the morning, a breakfast buffet with home-made sweets; in the evening, à la carte. It is also open to those not staying on the estate, at lunchtime and in the evening, always by reservation. The house also runs fresh pasta cookery classes.

The wellness centre offers massages, face and body treatments and a room with fitness equipment, and has its own telephone for booking: +39 0789 83354. The pool is outdoors, among wild olive trees.

Getting there and what is nearby

The estate is in the locality of Pilastru, at kilometre 5 of the road from Arzachena. From Olbia it is about 45 minutes by car, and to Spiaggia del Principe, about 35. A few metres away is the Li Muri necropolis, one of the sites of the Arzachena archaeological park, and a few minutes by car the giants' tombs and nuraghi of Capichera.