Sardinia: clear-water coves and wild mountains.

Which part of Sardinia should you choose?

Sardinia is a big island, the second largest in the Mediterranean, and very different from mainland Italy: sparsely populated, with a mountainous, pastoral interior, its own languages and a coastline of clear water. You travel mostly by sea, and the question is which coast to choose, because going all the way round takes more than a week.

The east is the most rugged coast. The Gulf of Orosei is limestone cliffs plunging into the sea, sea caves and coves with no road, such as Cala Luna or Cala Goloritzé, reached by boat from Cala Gonone or on foot along long trails. Behind lies the Supramonte, limestone mountains with canyons such as Gorropu, for hikers. It's the best area if you like combining sea and walking. Inland, the Barbagia holds the murals of Orgosolo and the masks of Mamoiada.

The north-east is luxury Sardinia. The Costa Smeralda, around Porto Cervo, has granite coves and turquoise water, and prices to match. Further north, the La Maddalena archipelago, a national park, is explored by boat from Palau, and from Santa Teresa Gallura you can see Corsica across the strait.

The north-west is the gateway from Spain. Alghero is a walled city on the sea where a dialect of Catalan is still spoken; around it are the Neptune's Grotto, at Capo Caccia, and further north the beach of La Pelosa, at Stintino, with white sand and shallow water. Bosa, to the south, is a village of coloured houses beside a river.

The south has the capital, Cagliari, with its upper old town of Castello, and the long beaches of Chia and Villasimius. Inland, near Barumini, is Su Nuraxi, the Bronze Age village of stone towers that is a World Heritage Site: the nuraghi are Sardinia's own monument, and there are thousands across the island.

For a week, choose two neighbouring areas: the Gulf of Orosei and the Costa Smeralda from Olbia, or Alghero and the north-west if you arrive by ferry at Porto Torres.

How do you get there from Spain?

By plane, to Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero. According to the routes Aena currently publishes, Cagliari has direct flights from Barcelona and Seville, and Olbia, the best arrival point for the Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena and the Gulf of Orosei, from Barcelona. Alghero currently has no direct route from Spain. Routes change with the season: check them before booking.

By boat, Grimaldi Lines links Barcelona with Porto Torres, in the north of the island, on an overnight crossing of about thirteen to fifteen hours. It's the option if you want to bring your car, motorbike or motorhome. From Italy there are also ferries from Genoa to Olbia and to Porto Torres, among other lines.

How do you get around Sardinia?

By car. It's essential: public transport exists between towns, but it doesn't reach the coves, the trails or the villages of the interior. Sardinia has no toll motorways: the main fast road, the SS131, crosses the island from Cagliari to Sassari and Porto Torres, with a branch to Olbia. Coastal and mountain roads are winding and slower than they look on the map.

By boat, for what has no road: the coves of the Gulf of Orosei from Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navarrese, and the La Maddalena islands from Palau.

When should you go and what does it cost?

May, June, September and early October. In June and September the water is warm and the coves are peaceful; May is ideal for walking in the Supramonte. July and August are high season: the ferries are full and need booking months ahead, the famous coves get packed and prices rise sharply. Out of season a good part of the coast closes.

Sardinia is expensive in summer, especially on the Costa Smeralda. The interior and the west are considerably cheaper, and farm-stay food, with suckling pig, sheep's cheeses and carasau bread, is very good value.