What to do · Olbia and the Costa Smeralda
A Walk Around Porto Cervo: the Piazzetta, the Harbour and Stella Maris Church
Information
- Price
- Free
- Duration
- 1 h
- Season
- All year; in winter, many shops closed
- Who it's for
- Everyone
- With a dog
- On a lead, in the streets and along the harbour promenade; not inside the church
Porto Cervo is not an old village: it was built from scratch by the Consorzio Costa Smeralda, founded in 1962, in an almost uninhabited part of Gallura, as a self-sufficient centre designed for tourism. What you will see is 1960s architecture imitating a Mediterranean village: rustic walls, irregular corners, plaster mixed with ground granite and natural pigments, untreated wood. You can walk round it in an hour, and in the evening it has the most atmosphere.
The Piazzetta and the harbour
The centre is the Piazzetta, a small square, and the walk that goes down to the marina. The streets and villas around follow the same curved line. In summer the harbour is full of boats; out of season many shops close and the village is almost empty, which also has its charm if you only want to stroll.
Stella Maris church
On the heights, looking over the harbour, is Stella Maris church, which can be seen from afar and serves as a landmark for those arriving by sea. It was designed in 1966 by the architect Michele Busiri Vici in a neo-Mediterranean style: white rounded volumes, a curved bell tower with an iron cross and a portico of six stone pillars. The bronze doors, with the Annunciation and Christian symbols, are by Luciano Minguzzi, and on the façade there are two sculptures by Pinuccio Sciola, of Saint Joseph and of John Paul II.
Inside, the floor is granite and the light enters through stained glass. It has a 16th-century Mater Dolorosa attributed to El Greco, which arrived as a donation, a Neapolitan pipe organ by the De Martino family, from the 17th or 18th century, and two crucifixes of the German school. The attribution of the painting to El Greco is not certain: Italy's official tourism website presents it with caution. The official sources do not publish visiting hours.
Getting there and parking
Porto Cervo is about 45 minutes from Olbia along the SS125 and the SP59. In summer it is not easy to park near the Piazzetta; arrive early or in the late afternoon. From Poltu Quatu, if you are coming from the snorkelling, it is about ten minutes.
With a dog
The streets and the harbour promenade are public space: with the dog on a lead there is no problem. Inside the church, no.
Tips
- Go at sunset The harbour and the Piazzetta have more life as evening falls, and it is less hot.
- Climb up to the church The views of the harbour from Stella Maris are the best in the village.
- Out of season, lower your expectations From November to March almost everything closes; the walk is still lovely.
Frequently asked questions
How much time do I need?
An hour for the Piazzetta, the harbour and the church.
Does it cost anything?
No. The walk and the church are free.
Who designed the church?
The architect Michele Busiri Vici, who designed it in 1966.
Is there really an El Greco?
There is a 16th-century Mater Dolorosa attributed to El Greco, though the attribution is presented with caution.
With a dog
