A day in the Cinque Terre, on foot, by boat and by train.

This is the classic Cinque Terre day, done without a car and in the order that avoids the worst hours: the path first thing, before the groups arrive; lunch in Vernazza; the boat to see the villages from the sea; and the aperitivo in Manarola in the afternoon light. We set it out from La Spezia, the city that closes the line in the south and where there is more accommodation, but it works just the same if you sleep in Monterosso or Vernazza.

Getting there from Spain

By plane and train. There is a direct flight from Madrid to Pisa and from Barcelona to Genoa. From Pisa airport, the PisaMover drops you at Pisa Centrale, and from there the train leaves for La Spezia. From Genoa, the Volabus goes to the Principe or Brignole stations, with regional trains towards Levanto and Monterosso. It is a half-day journey: arrive the day before and sleep near the line.

The day, hour by hour

7:45 · Train to Monterosso. Buy the day's Cinque Terre Treno Card at the station: it includes the trains, the Sentiero Azzurro and the minibuses. The regional takes about 25 minutes to Monterosso, the last of the five villages from the north.

8:15 · Sentiero Azzurro to Vernazza. It leaves from the edge of Monterosso's old town and climbs among olive trees, vines and stone walls. There are many steps, but the path is well marked. Allow about two hours with stops. The arrival, with Vernazza appearing at your feet, is the best moment of the day. Before setting out, check the park's website for a weather alert: with one, the paths close.

12:30 · Lunch at Trattoria Gianni Franzi. Go down to Piazza Marconi, next to the harbour. The trattoria has been there since the sixties: order the anchovies, stuffed, salted or with lemon, and the tegame alla vernazzana. From spring to mid-autumn there are tables outside, in the square. Closed on Wednesdays.

14:30 · Boat towards Manarola. The line 02 boat leaves from the neighbouring jetty. Buy the trip at the ticket office and sit looking towards land: you will see Corniglia high on the cliff and arrive at Manarola from the sea. It does not sail in a rough sea; then take the train, which takes a few minutes.

17:00 · Aperitivo at Nessun Dorma. Climb to Punta Bonfiglio, the headland opposite the village, and get your turn on the Nessun Dorma app: bruschette, platters and a white from the coast, facing the coloured houses. No bookings and in season there is a wait. From May to October it is open from Thursday to Sunday in the afternoon.

19:15 · Return. Ten minutes on foot to Manarola station and a quarter of an hour by train to La Spezia.

With children

The Sentiero Azzurro is long for small children: swap it for the Via dell'Amore, from Riomaggiore to Manarola, a flat half hour with a reserved slot. They love the boat. Bring a baby carrier: the villages are all stairs.