Nessun Dorma

A terrace facing Manarola

Nessun Dorma is a bar for wine and simple food at Punta Bonfiglio, the headland north of Manarola's harbour. From its tables, among plants and white parasols, you see head-on the most photographed image of the Cinque Terre: the coloured houses hanging from the rock, the harbour boats and the sea. It opened in 2014 on a spot that had stood empty for years, and the name comes from the aria in Puccini's Turandot.

It is not a restaurant. It is the place for aperitif hour after walking, or for something light while looking at the village.

What to order

The house makes it clear: there is no pasta and no pizza. They work with fresh produce of the day and do everything by hand: bruschette, the toasted bread with tomato and basil or with stracchino, boards of cured meats and cheeses and salads. To drink, Cinque Terre wines, including a DOC white and a Sciacchetrà under their own label, and the limoncino spritz, the coastal lemon liqueur with prosecco and mint, served in a glass jar. They have gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options, though they warn that the kitchen is small and cross-contamination is possible.

In the morning, from March to October, the terrace is given over to the pesto workshop, which includes lunch.

How to get a table

You cannot book. Download the Nessun Dorma app or take the ticket at the bar, scan it and wait for your number; when you have fewer than ten ahead of you, come to the entrance. The app opens the turns half an hour before service. In season the wait is long, so add it to your plan. If you do not want to wait, they also prepare takeaway.

Hours and getting there

It opens only for the aperitif and closes on Tuesdays. According to its contact page, from 12 March to April it is open from 13:00 to 19:00 and from May to October, Thursday to Sunday from 17:00 to 19:30; the home page speaks of aperitif from 16:45 until closing. In winter it is closed. Check the day on its Instagram stories, which is where they post notices.

From Manarola station follow the signs towards the marina. At the end of the street you will see a balcony over the sea: take the little path round the cliff and climb the steps at the corner. Five to ten minutes on foot.