The Via Appia Antica by Bicycle

The Roman road leaves the city through the Porta San Sebastiano and continues south among pines, tombs, catacombs and the remains of villas. The regional park that protects it has more than 16 km of the Appia and its surroundings, always open and with no entry fee. By bike you see in a morning what on foot would take the whole day.

What you see on the way

• Porta San Sebastiano: the gate in the Aurelian Wall where the Appia Antica begins.
• Quo Vadis: the small church where, according to tradition, Peter met Christ as he fled from Rome.
• Catacombs: those of San Callisto and San Sebastiano open off the road. They are visited with a guide and a separate ticket, so lock your bike well.
• Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella: the great cylindrical tomb of the 1st century BC, turned into a castle in the Middle Ages. From here the prettiest stretch begins.
• The cobbled stretch: from Cecilia Metella the road preserves long stretches of basoli, the original volcanic stone slabs, with tombs and pines on either side and the open Roman countryside.
• Villa dei Quintili: the remains of a great 2nd-century villa, further south, which make a good turning point.

The route

The most practical way is to hire the bike halfway along the road, already out of the city traffic, and pedal south. From Cecilia Metella to the end of the Appia cars are banned every day, except residents, so that stretch is yours. Out and back as far as the area of the Villa dei Quintili, with stops, allow between three and four hours.

The Roman cobbles really do shake you: go slowly, ride on the dirt edges where there are any and, if you hire, ask for a bike with suspension or an electric one. It is flat, with the odd gentle rise.

Where to hire

The Appia Antica Caffè, at Via Appia Antica 175, hires bikes every day from 9:00 to sunset, except Mondays, when it is closed. It offers the bike with a picnic basket or with a stop for lunch or an ice cream in its garden, and organises guided visits by bike or on foot with guides in several languages. Book on its website, by phone or by email; it does not publish prices. The park also has a page with the hire points in the area.

When to go

On Sundays and public holidays the Appia is closed to cars from Porta San Sebastiano, from 9:00 to 16:00 in winter hours and until 18:00 in summer. It is the best day to pedal from the start, although also the busiest. On weekdays, the southern stretch is quiet. Avoid the middle hours of July and August: the pines give little shade over the road. Spring and autumn are ideal.

Getting there

• Porta San Sebastiano: buses 118 and 218; metro C, Porta Metronia stop. There is no parking.
• Porta Capena, at the start of Via di Porta San Sebastiano: buses 118, 628, 671 and 714 and metro B, Circo Massimo stop, with street parking.
• Cecilia Metella: bus 660 reaches the area.

By car, the park suggests leaving it around Largo Galvaligi and entering on foot through Parco Scott to the Appia, next to the Quo Vadis. Parking outside the designated places is forbidden.

With children and families

The Appia works with children who already pedal confidently, especially on the car-free stretch. For little ones, ask for a child seat or trailer when booking. Bring water and something to eat: apart from the few cafés on the road there are no facilities.

If you want to continue with ancient Rome, the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine are a few minutes away by metro.