Trattoria Da Enzo al 29

A neighbourhood trattoria in Trastevere

Da Enzo is at number 29 on Via dei Vascellari, in the quiet part of Trastevere, between the Tiber and Santa Cecilia. It is a small dining room with a few tables in the street, run by the same family for decades. The menu is that of traditional Roman cooking: the four classic first courses (carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe and gricia), Jewish-style or Roman-style artichokes in season, meatballs in sauce, involtini, puntarelle in winter and, on Thursdays, gnocchi, as Roman tradition dictates.

How it works

It does not take reservations: you put your name down at the door and wait. It is open Monday to Saturday, at lunchtime from 12:00 to 15:00 and in the evening from 18:30 to 22:30; it closes on Sunday. The queue is shorter if you arrive right at opening, at 12:00 or 18:30. The tables inside are few and close together; those outside, more sought after, depend on the weather.

Getting there

From the centre, cross the Tiber by the Ponte Garibaldi or by the Tiber Island; in ten minutes' walk you are at the door. Tram 8, which runs from Largo Argentina to Trastevere, stops at Belli, five minutes away. Afterwards, the natural walk is to Santa Maria in Trastevere and the climb to the Janiculum.