A Cofradía de Rinlo

A Cofradía occupies a ground-floor unit in Plaza Leopoldo Calvo-Sotelo, at Rinlo port, and has served soupy seafood rice since 1992. At the house they call it the original, and it is what almost everyone comes for: rice in broth with clams, prawns and lobster or spiny lobster, in a casserole for two. Rinlo is a small port in Ribadeo, of about three hundred residents, with houses perched on the cliff and one of the oldest fishermen's guilds in Spain; the restaurant is at the edge of that quay.

The soupy rice and the grill platter, for two

The soupy seafood rice costs €52 and is for two people. If you want grilled seafood, the grill platter for two costs €150 and includes small scallops, mussels, prawns, razor clams, lobster and velvet crab. The rest of the seafood is sold by weight according to the day: lobster, spider crab, goose barnacles, Dublin Bay prawns, velvet crab, brown crab or slipper lobster. For those who don't eat seafood there is a grilled vegetable platter, at €25. All menu prices include VAT.

Portions, fish and desserts from the menu

If you don't want rice, the menu allows a meal of raciones: clams marinara at €20, razor clams at €21, octopus at €20, seafood croquettes at €13 or scrambled eggs with sea urchins and prawns at €28. Stuffed baby squid must be ordered in advance. For fish there is hake Galician style for €21, hake with sea urchin sauce for €32 and griddled sole, sea bass or John Dory for €32; bonito, in season. For those who prefer meat, entrecôte at €22 or beef chop at €40 a kilo. Among the desserts, at €6, is the Santa Clara nuns' millefeuille, and there are gluten-free cheesecake and Swiss roll.

Kitchen hours and Tuesday

The place is open from 11:00 to 19:00, and on Friday and Saturday it reopens from 20:30 to 23:00. The kitchen serves lunches from 13:00 to 16:00 and, on Friday and Saturday, dinners from 21:30 to 23:00: the rest of the week there is no dinner. It is closed on Tuesday, although the website itself announces exceptions on public holidays, eves of holidays and in July and August; if your visit falls on a Tuesday, call before going. From June to September they put out the terrace.

Bookings are made by phone only, on 982 12 30 07, every day from 11:00 to 18:00, or in person at the restaurant. There is no online booking. In summer and at weekends, call a few days ahead.

With the As Catedrais tide

As Catedrais is a few minutes by car, and lunch fits well with low tide: if the tide goes out mid-morning, beach first and rice afterwards. Remember that at Easter and from 1 July to 30 September entry to the beach needs the Xunta's free authorisation. The restaurant is also the natural end of the beaches walk from Rinlo, and the full day, with boat and low tide, is in the plan As Catedrais at low tide, boat and rice in Rinlo.