Rinlo and the Beaches Walk to As Catedrais

Rinlo is Ribadeo's other port: a small fishing village west of the town, with houses clinging to the cliff and the sea coming in between the rocks as far as the streets. From here starts the beaches walk, about 6 km beside the sea to As Catedrais. It is easy, takes a couple of hours and ends at As Catedrais, so you can arrive on foot, at low tide, instead of looking for parking.

What to see in Rinlo

The port is in the A Areosa inlet, one of the few natural shelters on this coast, and has medieval origins. The houses are terraced, with gabled roofs and narrow streets sheltered from the wind; many kept fishing gear on the ground floor. In the early 20th century the tongues of sea between the rocks were used to build cetáreas, natural tanks for raising lobster and spider crab; they can still be seen beside the village. At the top, an indiano house with a lookout served as a lighthouse: it was the first on the Cantabrian coast installed on private property.

Rinlo is also a place to eat. The dish is lobster rice, made at A Cofradía, at the port since 1992, and at Porto de Rinlo, in Praza de Santa Catalina. In summer the village celebrates the Festa do Percebe (goose barnacle festival).

The beaches walk

From Rinlo westwards, the path follows the coast between coves, sands and slate cliffs to As Catedrais, about 6 km according to the Parador de Ribadeo. Along the way are beaches such as Os Castros, the widest in Ribadeo, and Esteiro, among the most family-friendly according to Turismo de Ribadeo. It is linear: to return, the Ferrol–Xixón line train has halts at Esteiro, Os Castros and Rinlo, or leave a car at each end. If you have energy left, the Camino Natural Ruta del Cantábrico links the town of Ribadeo with this whole coast.

Time your departure to reach As Catedrais an hour before low tide, and remember that at Easter and from 1 July to 30 September you need authorisation to go down to the sands. The paths above are open.

With a geologist

The Concello organises the Xeoruta dos Ollos, which leaves from Praza de Santa Catarina in Rinlo: three hours and 5 km to understand the "ollos" and micro-folds of this coast, free and with limited places. It is among the free geo-walks.