Mérida, the Rome that is still standing.

Mérida was Augusta Emerita, the capital of Roman Lusitania, and it still looks like it. Within a few blocks you have a theatre with its columned stage, an amphitheatre, a temple in the middle of the street, a granite bridge over the Guadiana and an aqueduct with its arches standing. Its archaeological ensemble has been a World Heritage Site since 1993. It is the capital of Extremadura, a lively, flat city toured on foot, and in a day you see the essentials.

How to get there from Badajoz or Cáceres

By car, Mérida is a junction of motorways. From Badajoz it is about 60 km on the A-5, about fifty minutes. From Cáceres, about 75 km on the A-66, under an hour. From Seville, about 190 km on the A-66, a little over two hours. From Madrid, about 340 km on the A-5, close to three hours and three quarters without stops.

Without a car it is also easy to reach. Renfe Media Distancia has trains from Badajoz, Cáceres, Seville and Madrid, and the station, on calle Cardero, is a quarter of an hour's walk from the theatre. The bus station is on the other side of the Guadiana, about twenty minutes' walk from the centre.

Where to park

The centre has narrow streets and there is little space around the theatre. The practical thing is to leave the car on arrival, if possible in your hotel's car park, and not move it until the evening: from the theatre to the Alcazaba is ten minutes on foot. You need the car again only for the Roman circus, to the east, and for the Proserpina reservoir, about 8 km to the north.

What to see in a day

Start at 9:00 at the theatre and amphitheatre, when they open and there are no groups yet. The theatre was inaugurated between 16 and 15 BC and could hold about 6,000 people; the amphitheatre, next door, was the gladiators' one. Buy the combined ticket there: for €17 it also covers the Alcazaba, the Casa del Mitreo with the Columbarios, the crypt of Santa Eulalia, the Morería, the circus and the centre of the Temple of Diana. Under-13s accompanying their family do not pay.

Opposite is the Museo Nacional de Arte Romano, Rafael Moneo's brick building, with the statues and mosaics that have come out of the city. It costs €3 and is free on Sundays and Saturday afternoons; it is closed on Mondays.

Then head down towards the Plaza de España past the Temple of Diana, with its columns in the middle of a block of houses, and the Forum Portico. Eat in that area. In the afternoon, the Arab Alcazaba and the Roman bridge, to cross the Guadiana on foot. If you have light left, the Milagros aqueduct, a quarter of an hour's walk away, with the sun side-on to the pillars.

If you prefer to be told about it, the "Mérida al completo" tour by Activa Tours does the route in three and a half hours with an official guide and the tickets included, for €42. It leaves from its office opposite the museum.

Where to eat

Near the Alcazaba, Tuétano serves holm-oak grill and is open Wednesday to Sunday from midday to midnight. For an occasion, A de Arco, with a piece of the Arch of Trajan inside the dining room. The Parador restaurant, in a convent above the forum, is open every day and has a terrace in a garden with Roman pieces.

How much time do you need?

A full day for the theatre, the museum and the centre. With a night, you add the circus, the Casa del Mitreo and the aqueduct at leisure, and see the city lit up. With two, Mérida serves as a base for Cáceres, an hour away, or for Zafra, fifty minutes to the south.

When to go

In spring and autumn. From March to May and in October and November you can walk comfortably at any hour. In July and August midday easily passes 35 °C and there is little shade among the ruins: monuments first thing, museum at midday and a stroll at dusk. In return, summer brings the Classical Theatre Festival, with Greek and Latin plays at night in the Roman theatre. The ensemble closes only on 25 December and 1 and 6 January.