Mesón La Cueva
What to order: a Castilian roast and homemade cake; if there are salt cod days, try it
geocalia
Day itinerary · 40.59° N · 4.15° W
La Herrería forest in autumn, from the monastery to the Chair through the chestnut trees.
An 8.6 km route through ash groves, chestnut woods and fountains of the royal forest to Philip II's Chair, a Castilian roast at an inn from 1768 and the Jardín de los Frailes. 50 minutes from Madrid.
Leaving from
Part of San Lorenzo de El EscorialThe Central SystemScenic train journeys in SpainHistoric bookshops and libraries of Europe
Add to my trip
Total time8 h
By car45 min each way
Walking2 h 45 · 8.6 km to the Chair
DifficultyMedium
Cost€30–45 pp
Best timeOctober – November
With a dogYes, on a lead
The plan
The day at a glance
Any part can be swapped for another without spoiling the day.
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Leave Madrid 45 min by car
via the A-6 and the M-505, about 50 min; or buses 661 and 664 from Moncloa
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1
La Herrería, El Castañar and the Silla walk
leaves from the tourist office · 8.6 km · 2 h 45 · via the Cuesta de los Pastores and the Fuente de la Reina
- 15 min on foot
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2
Philip II's Seat through La Herrería
the view of the monastery from the rock; back to the village in 45 min along the forest road or by taxi
- 6 min by car4,9 km
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3
Mesón La Cueva
Mesón La Cueva, on Calle San Antón · Castilian cooking · €€ · booking
C/ San Antón, 4, 28200 San Lorenzo de El Escorial · +34 918 90 15 16
Restaurant €€Book - 6 min on foot
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4
Friars' Garden and its viewpoint
terraces and pond below the monastery · 30 min · free
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Back home
You reach Madrid around 18:15
Approximate cost
About €20–35 per person
Adds up the activities and meals in the plan at their published prices; travel and accommodation not included.
The route
La Herrería, El Castañar and the Silla walk
The La Herrería forest, at the foot of the monastery, is a royal woodland of ash, oak and chestnut trees that Patrimonio Nacional has kept whole since Philip II. In autumn it turns yellow, and the route suggested by the San Lorenzo tourist office crosses it through its four types of woodland, goes round the El Castañar estate and climbs to Philip II's Chair, the rock from which, tradition says, the king watched the building work. Then, a roast at an 18th-century inn.
The day, hour by hour
9:00 · Set off. From Madrid, via the A-6 and the M-505, about 50 minutes. Without a car, buses 661 and 664 leave from the Moncloa interchange and take about an hour.
10:00 · La Herrería and El Castañar. You set off from the tourist office, pass the Jardín de los Frailes viewpoint and enter the forest by the columns of the Cuesta de los Pastores. The path continues past the Seminario fountain, the Romeros cross and the Batán stream, goes round the wall of El Castañar to the Fuente de la Reina and climbs past the Tilo de la Mano and the ruin of the Casa del Sordo. It is 8.6 km, about 2 h 45, of medium difficulty. In October and November, the chestnut-grove stretch is the best.
13:00 · Philip II's Chair. The view of the monastery in the middle of the forest. It is about 45 minutes on foot back to the village; if you are short of time, call a taxi.
14:15 · Lunch at Mesón La Cueva. The former Posada de las Ánimas, from 1768, on calle San Antón, two minutes from the monastery's Lonja. Castilian cooking of roasts and home-made tarts. On Sundays it opens at midday; closed on Mondays. Book.
16:30 · Jardín de los Frailes. The terraces, vegetable gardens and the pond under the south façade of the monastery, with the La Herrería you have just crossed at your feet. Half an hour, free.
17:15 · Head home. In Madrid around a quarter past six.
What to order
A Castilian roast, lamb or suckling pig, and a home-made tart. If the cod days coincide, try it.
Distance8.6 km
Time2 h 45
Where to eat
Where to eat?
Lunch is half the plan: book before you set off.
Miranda & Suizo Café
What to order: chocolate with picatostes, the town's traditional afternoon snack
Horizontal Restaurant
What to order: grilled meats or a game dish, such as the venison carpaccio or the pigeon risotto
Map
The stops, in order
With where to park at each one.
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Getting there
By car or without one?
When to go
When to go to San Lorenzo de El Escorial
In October and November the chestnut grove and ash groves of La Herrería turn yellow: according to the tourist office, it is the best of the day. The Jardín de los Frailes is closed on Mondays.
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Best timeGood timeLow season
Tips
Worth knowing first
- 1Take the tourist office map
There are many junctions in the forest; the route has its names in the leaflet.
- 2Dog on a lead
It is a woodland with livestock and very busy on Sundays.
- 3Shoes with a sole
Wet chestnut leaves are slippery on the descents.
We'd skip it
In heavy rain: the path turns to mud. Stay at the monastery and leave the route for another Sunday.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
How long does the route take?
8.6 km and about 2 h 45 to the Chair, plus the return to the village.
When is the forest at its prettiest?
In October and November, with the chestnut and ash trees yellow.
Can you do it without a car?
Yes: buses 661 and 664 from Moncloa, and the route starts in the centre of the village.
Do I have to pay?
The route and the Jardín de los Frailes are free. You only pay for lunch.
More plans like this
Other days of walking and good food
geocalia.com/en/spain/community-of-madrid/san-lorenzo-de-el-escorial/itineraries/autumn-in-la-herreria-and-el-castanar
Prices, opening hours and times are approximate: check them before you go. Each place has its own page on Geocalia.