The Central System, the granite spine that splits the Meseta in two.

The Central System is the mountain range that anyone living in Madrid, Ávila, Segovia or Salamanca sees on the horizon. A granite range that crosses the peninsula from west to east and separates the two plateaus, with peaks above 2,500 metres, gorges, valleys of cherry and chestnut trees, and historic cities perched on its skirts. It is nearby mountain: almost everything is less than two hours from a city.

What is the Central System?

It is a chain of about 600 km that starts in Portugal and ends in Guadalajara and Soria. In the west, in Portugal, are the Serra da Lousã and the Serra da Estrela, with the Torre at 1,993 metres, the roof of mainland Portugal. Then in Spain come the Sierra de Gata, the Peña de Francia and Béjar, between Cáceres and Salamanca; Gredos, in Ávila, with Almanzor Peak at 2,592 metres, the highest of the whole range; and Guadarrama, between Madrid and Segovia, with Peñalara at 2,428 metres. At the end, Somosierra and Ayllón, where the Pico del Lobo reaches 2,274 metres.

It is not a single range, but a string of them, and each has its own character: Gredos is the most alpine, with glacial cirques and lakes; Guadarrama, the most visited, with pine woods and ski passes; the Sierra de Francia and northern Cáceres are lower and greener, with mountain villages and chestnut trees. Since 2013 the Guadarrama summits have formed a National Park.

How do you get there and get around?

A car is the practical choice, because the range is explored through valleys and passes not linked by public transport. From Madrid, the A-6 climbs towards Guadarrama and Segovia, the A-1 towards Somosierra and the Sierra Norte, and Gredos is about two hours away, via Ávila towards the Plataforma or along the A-5 towards Arenas de San Pedro. From Salamanca, the Sierra de Francia is an hour away and the A-66 goes down to the Ambroz valley in a little more.

Without a car there are options on the Madrid side. The C-8 Cercanías reaches Cercedilla, gateway to the Fuenfría valley. The AVE drops you in Segovia half an hour from Madrid. There are intercity buses to Manzanares el Real, Rascafría and San Lorenzo de El Escorial. In the rest of the range, buses are few and are no use for linking routes.

On foot, the range is for day outings rather than traverses: routes of three to six hours from a car park, such as the one from the Plataforma de Gredos to the Laguna Grande, 13.6 km there and back.

What to see in the Central System?

In Guadarrama and its surroundings, La Pedriza and the castle of Manzanares el Real; Navacerrada and Cercedilla, with skiing and the Fuenfría Roman road; and the Lozoya valley, with El Paular and the Laguna Grande de Peñalara. At the foot of the range, San Lorenzo de El Escorial and, on the Segovia side, Segovia and the walled town of Pedraza. Further north, the Sierra Norte de Madrid brings together Patones, Buitrago and the Hayedo de Montejo.

Towards the west, Ávila and its wall open the door to the Sierra de Gredos, with the Laguna Grande, Arenas de San Pedro and the Cuevas del Águila. In Salamanca, La Alberca and the Sierra de Francia bring together half-timbered villages such as Mogarraz and Miranda del Castañar. In northern Cáceres, the Jerte valley, with more than a million and a half cherry trees, and Hervás and the Ambroz valley, with its Jewish quarter and the Vía Verde de la Plata.

In Portugal, the Serra da Estrela closes the range with the glacial Zêzere valley and Manteigas as a base, about 215 km from Salamanca.

When to go?

It depends on what you are looking for. Spring brings the cherry blossom of the Jerte, between late March and mid-April, and waterfalls full of water. June and September are the best months for the high routes of Gredos and Peñalara. October and November are the season of the chestnut trees, oaks and beech woods, in the Sierra de Francia, the Ambroz or Montejo. In winter, snow reaches the summits and passes, and Guadarrama has skiing from January to March. July and August are hot in the low valleys, but cool up high; start early.

How many days do you need?

Each range calls for its own getaway. From Madrid, almost all of Guadarrama can be done in day trips. Gredos, the Sierra de Francia or the Jerte call for a weekend with one or two nights. The Serra da Estrela, because of the distance, is better with two or three nights. Travelling the whole range from east to west, sleeping in three or four bases, takes a good week.

What is worth knowing before you go?

Several places have quotas and it is worth knowing before you set out: Canto Cochino, in La Pedriza, closes its barrier when 270 cars have entered; the Laguna Grande de Peñalara admits 945 people a day; the Hayedo de Montejo is free but requires a pass with limited places. At weekends, arrive early. On the summits the weather changes quickly: fog, wind and afternoon storms in summer; from November to April, snow and ice that call for equipment. Ávila and Segovia are above 1,000 metres, and in winter it is very cold.