geocalia
The Laguna Grande de Peñalara beneath the walls of the glacial cirqueRodelar · CC BY-SA 4.0

What to do · Lozoya Valley: Rascafría, El Paular and Peñalara

Laguna Grande de Peñalara via the Zabala area

Easy walk · 4.7 km · 1 h 45 · 279 m · From Cotos to the glacial cirque and the Laguna Grande, with a daily quota

InformationFree
Price
Free
Duration
1 h 45
Distance
4.7 km
Season
May to November; with snow, check first
Who it's for
Families
With a dog
Always on a lead; never in the water

The short route in the Peñalara massif, the PNSG-033 "Zona del Zabala", leaves the Los Cotos pass and climbs to the Zabala refuge, inside the glacial cirque and above the Laguna Grande de Peñalara. It is 4.7 km there and back, with 279 m of cumulative ascent and 1 h 45, and the National Park classifies it for beginner walkers. It is the simplest way to see up close the best-preserved glacial remains in the Sierra de Guadarrama.

The route

You set out from the Peñalara Visitor Centre or the Cotos car park along a forest track with a gentle climb, leaving the Gitana viewpoint and the Depósito shelter on your right. The natural Scots pine forest gradually gives way to scrub, mat-grass and high-mountain pasture. After a couple of bends the track forks: you keep straight on and climb in zigzags up a steep slope to the 2,100 m junction. There you take the right-hand branch and, about 700 metres later, you reach the Zabala refuge area, with views of the glacial cirque and the Laguna Grande. You return by the same way.

The highest point is at 2,083 metres and the average gradient is around 12%. On the MIDE scale, the Park gives it a 2 out of 5 for severity, travel and effort, and a 1 for orientation. In June the broom flowers, tinting the slopes yellow.

Rules of the massif

The cirque and its lakes are fragile ecosystems, and Peñalara has its own rules:

  • You must not go into the water, neither the lake nor any stream or pool, not even with dogs: it harms the amphibians.
  • You must not leave the marked paths, and you must not pick plants, mushrooms, flowers or stones.
  • Dogs on a lead at all times.
  • No camping. Bivouacking without a tent is only permitted next to the Zabala refuge, and never with dogs.

Quota, parking and winter

The massif admits 945 visitors a day; when it is full, no one else is let in until the next day. There is no online booking: at weekends it is advisable to phone the visitor centre beforehand, on 918 520 857, which opens every day from 8:00 to 18:00. The Cotos car park has 250 free spaces, open 24 hours, which at weekends and public holidays usually fill between 9:00 and 11:00, and earlier if there is snow. With snow and ice the route becomes more difficult: ask at the centre before going up.

With children who already walk, it is a good first mountain route; the zigzag section is the hardest.

Getting there

By car, take the A-1 to exit 69 and the M-604 to the Los Cotos pass, or the AP-6, the M-601 to the Navacerrada pass and the SG-615. By bus, the 691 from Moncloa and, at weekends and public holidays, the 819 from Rascafría. The C9 Cercanías line has been closed for works since May 2024, with a replacement bus from Cercedilla. More at buses from Madrid and the Peñalara Visitor Centre.

What to combine

Anyone with more energy can continue to the summit on the climb to Peñalara peak, which shares the first stretch. On the way down to the valley, the El Paular monastery and, in summer, a swim at Las Presillas.

As a familyWith teenagersWith a dog

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

The dining room of the old hayloft, with stone walls, timber beams and tables with tablecloths© Restaurante Caldea

Caldea Restaurant

Restaurant · Rascafría · €€€€

What to order: La Granja judiones (€21) or the boletus and mi-cuit "El Roble" bao bun (€15), and the roast shoulder of suckling lamb (€32) or the slow-braised leg of venison (€31)

A plate of sweetbreads© Casa Briscas

Casa Briscas

Restaurant · Rascafría · €€€€

What to order: Sierra de Guadarrama meat or suckling pig; at the bar, raciones and tostas

Wooden tables under the trees in the restaurant meadow© Restaurante La Pradera

La Pradera Restaurant

Restaurant · Rascafría · €€€€

What to order: homemade ham croquettes and, in summer, the house grilled sardines

To stay nearby

The facilities of the Los Batanes hostel© Comunidad de MadridHostel

Los Batanes Youth Hostel

120 beds · 44 rooms · Dining room · Next to the monastery

Why we like it: Community of Madrid hostel next to El Paular, with 120 beds in 44 rooms of 1 to 8 beds and a dining room.

A superior room© El Rincón de RascafríaSmall hotel

Hotel El Rincón de Rascafría

Centre of Rascafría · 10 rooms · Underfloor heating · No air conditioning

Why we like it: Small ten-room hotel on plaza Dos de Mayo, rustic in style, with underfloor heating and balconies.

From €95 / night View details
The hotel entrance, with a brick and wood porch© Hotel Rural El ValleSmall hotel

Hotel Rural El Valle

Rascafría · Doubles, triples and singles · Adapted rooms · Apartments with fireplace

Why we like it: Family-run two-star country hotel in Rascafría, with doubles from €80 a night, triples, adapted rooms and apartments.

From €80 / night View details

Itineraries

Features in these plans