Montseny from the Selva side: a Gothic castle and chestnut cooking.

The Montseny has a lesser-known side, the Selva one, which faces Girona. On it, above Arbúcies, stands Montsoriu castle, which the chronicler Bernat Desclot described in the 13th century as one of the most beautiful and noble in the world. You walk up through the forest, visit it with a guide, free of charge, and then cross the mountain to Viladrau, the chestnut village, for lunch. A perfect autumn Sunday an hour from Girona, and another from Barcelona.

The Day, Hour by Hour

8:45 · Departure. From Girona, the AP-7 southwards and the Arbúcies road, an hour. From Barcelona, the AP-7 northwards, the same again. The castle is on the Fogueres road, between Arbúcies and Sant Feliu de Buixalleu; leave the car in the public car park.

9:35 · Climb to Montsoriu. From the car park it is 2.8 km on foot, 30 to 40 minutes along a mountain path, with steps near the end. Set off with time to spare: the group does not wait.

10:15 · The guided visit. The castle can only be visited in guided groups, at weekends at 10:15 and 12:30; in November a 11:30 session is added. It is free, but you must book on its website: places are limited, up to eight per booking, and everyone signs some conditions before going in. It is usually in Catalan; for other languages, write to the castle. The first written mention dates from the year 1002, but what you see is mainly the great Gothic rebuilding by Bernat II de Cabrera, in the mid-14th century, when it was the residence of the Viscounts of Cabrera. Underneath are remains of an Iberian settlement. After the visit, walk back down to the car without hurrying.

12:30 · On to Viladrau. The road crosses the mountain between chestnut and oak trees. If you have time to spare, stop in Arbúcies for a drink before setting off.

13:30 · Lunch at Xalet La Coromina. On the Vic road, 4, in Viladrau. It is a hotel and restaurant, with a wooden dining room, a fireplace in winter, large windows onto the forest and a garden under the cypresses. It serves lunch from 13:00 to 15:30 on Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and on public holidays; it is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays. You can book a table until 15:00, on 676 237 016.

16:00 · Return. Drive down while there is still light. In Girona around five; in Barcelona, shortly after.

What to Order

Viladrau is the chestnut village of the Montseny, and Xalet La Coromina is one of the four Chestnut Ambassador (Embaixador de la Castanya) restaurants; its chef, Juan Antonio Cuartero, is the Official Chestnut Chef (Xef Oficial de la Castanya). To start, the onion and chestnut soup with pancetta and thyme or the brandade churros with chestnut chutney. For a main, the wild boar civet with roasted chestnuts or the chestnut butifarra sausage with mushrooms and polenta. For two, the casserole noodles with secreto pork and sobrasada. For dessert, the chestnut baba. Starters cost roughly €9 to €14 and mains €18 to €24. If you prefer the grill, Can Barrina, a Montseny farmhouse with a terrace over the Tordera valley, serves holm-oak-grilled meat, seasonal mushrooms and stews.

With Children and Dogs

With children from about six, the climb to the castle is a small outing with a reward: a real castle, with a guide. The steps at the end call for holding hands. With smaller ones, swap Montsoriu for the Turó de Tagamanent, from El Bellver: 1.2 km and half an hour to a summit with a church and the remains of a castle. Ask when you book whether the castle allows dogs on the visit.