Zamora on a Sunday: Romanesque with a guide, lunch at Cuzeo and the river.

Zamora has more Romanesque churches than a Sunday has hours, so the best thing is to let yourself be guided: the 11:00 guided tour, which leaves every day from the Plaza de Viriato, shows you the essentials in two hours, with the cathedral and one church from inside. Afterwards, the castle, a lunch of Zamora cooking at Cuzeo, beside the Plaza de Viriato, and the afternoon beside the Duero. From Salamanca it is an hour; from Valladolid, an hour and a half; from León or Palencia, a little more.

The day, hour by hour

9:15 · Set off. From Salamanca on the A-66, about 65 km; from Valladolid on the A-11 and N-122, about 100 km. Park outside the old town, or in your hotel's own car park if you are staying the night.

11:00 · Romanesque Zamora, with a guide. The Asociación Zamorana de Guías leaves from the Plaza de Viriato, beside the statue: La Magdalena and San Ildefonso from outside, the Troncoso viewpoint, the cathedral and its museum and the Portillo de la Lealtad, with one Romanesque church from inside. €12 per adult, €6 for ages 5 to 12; the cathedral (€6) and the churches are paid separately. Book by email at [email protected] and pay at the start.

13:15 · The castle. The tour ends beside it. Go in: it is free, and from the tower and gardens you can see the Duero. On Sundays it opens from 10:00 to 14:00.

14:00 · Lunch at Cuzeo. Go back along the Rúa to the Rúa de los Francos, a minute from the Plaza de Viriato. Zamora cooking with game from the Sierra de la Culebra, such as partridge, wild boar or venison, and Fuentesaúco chickpeas; there is an à la carte menu and a tasting menu. On Sundays it serves lunch from 13:45 to 16:00 and is closed in the evening. It has seven tables: book ahead.

16:15 · The Duero. Go down to the river by San Cipriano and walk to the Puente de Piedra; from the bank, the best view of the cathedral. Return by the Olivares watermills.

17:30 · Head home. In Salamanca around 18:30; in Valladolid, around 19:00.

With children

The castle and the river are what they like most, and the guided tour costs €6 for ages 5 to 12. If it rains, the Ethnographic Museum opens on Sunday mornings and has toys, costumes and trades.

With dogs

In the streets and along the river path, on a lead. Dogs are not allowed in the cathedral or the churches. The Hostería Real de Zamora accepts pets if you want to stay the night.