Zamora, the Romanesque city above the Duero.

Zamora is a long ridge above the Duero with the castle and the cathedral at one end and the Plaza Mayor at the other. In between, along Calle de la Rúa and the streets that drop down to the river, there are more Romanesque churches than in any other city in Europe: Santiago del Burgo, San Juan de Puerta Nueva, La Magdalena, San Ildefonso, Santa María la Nueva, San Cipriano. Almost all can be visited for a euro. Down below, the Puente de Piedra and the aceñas, the old mills on the river, give the best view of the cathedral with its scaled dome. It is a small, quiet city, good for a long day or a night.

How do you get to Zamora?

From Salamanca, along the A-66, about 65 km and an hour. From Valladolid, about 100 km along the A-11 and the N-122, in an hour and a half. From León, about 140 km along the A-66, an hour and three quarters; from Palencia, a little more. Park outside the old town or at your hotel and go in on foot: the historic centre is narrow and largely pedestrianised.

What to see in a day

Start in Plaza de Viriato, opposite the palace of the counts of Alba de Aliste, and join the 11:00 guided tour run by the Asociación Zamorana de Guías: two hours up to the castle, with the cathedral and a Romanesque church seen from inside, for €12. If you prefer to go on your own, walk along Calle de la Rúa to the cathedral: €6 with the cathedral and diocesan museums, free for under-12s. The scaled lantern tower is best seen from outside and from the river; inside, the museum holds the Flemish tapestries.

Next door, the castle, free, with its tower and gardens above the Duero, and the Museo Baltasar Lobo. In the afternoon, go down to the river by the Cuesta de Balborraz or by San Cipriano, cross the Puente de Piedra and come back by the aceñas. For the churches, buy the "La Milla Románica" pass, €6, which opens them all; on Wednesdays from 10:00 to 12:00 they are free.

How much time do you need?

One day for the cathedral, the castle, the river and three or four churches. With one night, add the Museo Etnográfico de Castilla y León, the Museo de Zamora and the rest of the churches, and the next day head for Toro or the Arribes del Duero. The Lago de Sanabria is less than two hours away and Salamanca, one.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best times. Zamora's Holy Week is among the best known in Spain and the city fills up: if you are not going for the processions, avoid it. In winter the Duero fog often covers the city in the morning and it is cold, but the churches, the cathedral and the museums open on winter hours. In summer middays are hot. Beware of Monday: the castle, the Museo Baltasar Lobo, the Etnográfico and the Museo de Zamora are closed, along with several churches.

Eating in Zamora

Arroz a la zamorana, bacalao a la tranca, Aliste beef, Fuentesaúco chickpeas, Zamora cheese and, for dessert, cañas filled with custard. Cuzeo, on Rúa de los Francos, makes modern Zamora cooking with game from the Sierra de la Culebra, at seven tables; it opens Wednesday to Sunday at lunchtime and Wednesday to Saturday in the evening: book. The Parador restaurant is closed, like the whole Parador, for works until 31 October 2027.

Where to stay in Zamora

The NH Zamora Palacio del Duero, partly in a 14th-century convent next to Santa María de la Horta, has paid indoor parking, with no advance reservation. The Hostería Real de Zamora, in the Palacio de la Inquisición, next to the Puente de Piedra, accepts pets at no charge and has a garden above the river. The Parador, in the palace of the counts of Alba de Aliste, is closed for works until 31 October 2027.