Walk around the Puebla Vieja

What it is

The Puebla Vieja is the upper old town of San Vicente de la Barquera, the former walled citadel on the promontory that overlooks the harbour and the estuary. The Government of Cantabria has declared it a historic-artistic site, and it holds the town's two monuments: the 14th-century castle and the Gothic church of Santa María de los Ángeles. You can walk it in an hour and a half, taking it slowly and stopping at the viewpoint. It is a short walk in distance but uphill: Calle Alta climbs from the harbour to the highest point of the promontory, and from the top you understand why a citadel was built here.

The route

The town council's one-day guide to San Vicente suggests this loop. You enter the old town through the Puerta del Mar, with the Castillo del Rey, now a museum, on your right. You continue along Calle Alta, the spine of the citadel, past remains of the wall, the Corro palace, which is now the town hall, and the Preboste tower, where taxes were once collected. Further up you pass the old Concepción hospital and reach the church of Santa María de los Ángeles, which crowns the citadel.

From the churchyard, at the end of Calle Alta, you get the best panorama of the town: the Pombo estuary, the harbour and, if the weather is good, the Picos de Europa. To come down, use Calle Alta as your axis and duck into the alleys of El Acuerdo, El Carbonero, Las Huertas and Ronda, with their passageways; the route ends at a window with views over the harbour.

Who it is for

All ages, but with slopes and cobbles: it is hard going with a pushchair, and the alleys are narrow. Wear comfortable shoes. With children, the castle and its battlements are the highlight; for adults, the church and the tomb of Inquisitor Corro.

Opening times and tickets

Walking around the Puebla Vieja is free and always open. The town council's website does not publish the castle's opening hours or price, nor the church's visiting hours: ask at the tourist office, on 942 710 797 or at [email protected], before you climb if you want to go into both.

When to go

Early in the morning, when the town is quiet, or at the end of the afternoon, with low light over the estuary. In August and on bank-holiday weekends it is busier: go up early if you want the viewpoint to yourself.

What to combine it with

Down at the harbour, the loop continues across the Maza bridge towards the beaches of La Maza and El Tostadero. On the other side of the estuary lie the Merón sands and the Rubín marsh. If you have the afternoon to spare, the town council's guide suggests finishing at the Punta de la Silla lighthouse at sunset.