Sunday in Cudillero: cliffs in the morning, curadillo in the harbour.

Cudillero is the village of coloured houses climbing around a small harbour, 45 minutes from Oviedo. This plan goes round it before going in: in the morning you go down to Silencio beach, a shell of pale pebbles beneath cliffs, and look out from the Cabo Vidío lighthouse. You eat in the harbour square, with cider and curadillo, the fishermen's dish of the village. In the afternoon you climb to the viewpoints over the amphitheatre, which is when the light is best.

The Day, Hour by Hour

9:30 · Departure. From Oviedo, take the A-63 and the A-8 westwards. Silencio beach is beyond Cudillero, in Castañeras: continue towards Novellana and look for the signposted turn-off. It is about 55 minutes.

10:30 · Silencio beach. You park at the top and go down about 500 metres by steps to a 500-metre shell of pale pebbles beneath Punta Nocedal. There are no facilities: take water and shoes that grip on the stones. With the climb back, allow an hour and a half.

12:15 · Cabo Vidío. On the way back towards Cudillero, at Oviñana, the road reaches the lighthouse. You look out over cliffs of more than 80 metres and see the beaches of Peñadoria and Cueva. There are no fences at the edge: with children and dogs, keep them by the hand and on a lead.

13:30 · Lunch at El Remo. Go down to the harbour by exit 431 of the A-8 and the CU-3, and leave the car in the quay car park. El Remo is on the square that opens onto the harbour. On Sundays the kitchen is open from 13:00 to 16:15.

16:00 · Viewpoints and Salencia cove. Walk up through the village's streets and steps to the viewpoints. The town council suggests a route of eight; from the Garita-Atalaya one you see the lighthouse, the harbour and the village at once. If you are with a dog, Salencia cove, next to the village, admits them all year round.

18:00 · Return. In Oviedo before seven.

What to Order at El Remo

Curadillo, a small catshark that is dried in the sun and wind for at least four months and served stewed with potatoes. Few places have it on the menu. If there are two of you, the grilled fish and seafood platter or the red scorpionfish ("virrey") cooked on its back; if it is cold, fabada. Book by phone during the hours they give, 11:30 to 13:30. It is closed on Monday evenings and on Tuesdays.

In Summer, with Children or in the Rain

From July to September, if the sea allows, swap the lighthouse for the Cudillero Aventura boat trip to Cabo Vidío: an hour and twenty minutes past cliffs and caves from €35 for adults and €25 for children. It leaves from the Puerto del Oeste; book on its website. With small children, San Pedro de la Ribera beach has lifeguards, toilets and parking, and is reached without steps. For a summer swim, the Concha de Artedo has a Blue Flag. In the rain, leave Silencio beach for another day: the path down is slippery.