Modica and Ragusa Ibla in a day, cold chocolate in the morning and Baroque stairs in the afternoon.

A day in the Baroque interior of the Val di Noto, the one with towns split in two, upper and lower, joined by stairs. In the morning, Modica and its chocolate, which is worked cold and ends up grainy, in the oldest chocolate maker in Sicily still operating. At midday, Modican home cooking on the Corso. In the afternoon, a few kilometres away, the walk down to Ragusa Ibla as far as the Duomo di San Giorgio.

Getting there from Spain

By plane to Catania, with direct flights from several Spanish cities, and a hire car at the airport. From Catania to Modica it is about two hours along the Ragusa road. Without a car, AST buses link Catania airport with Modica, but fitting Ibla into the day as well is difficult: if you go by bus, sleep in Modica.

The day, hour by hour

8:00 · Leave Catania. The Ragusa road to the first turning for Modica Centro. Park outside the centre.

10:30 · Visit to the Fattojo of Bonajuto. The Antica Dolceria Bonajuto has made chocolate in Modica since 1880. Its "bean to bar" workshop is visited in about 30 minutes, in Italian or English, with the history of Modica chocolate and a tasting at the end. Book the day on its visits website; the price and the exact address of the workshop appear when you book. Children up to age 5 do not pay. Afterwards, if you have time, climb up to see the Duomo di San Giorgio in Modica by its flight of steps.

13:00 · Lunch at the Osteria dei Sapori Perduti. At Corso Umberto I, 228. Modican home cooking by the Muriana family, with the menu in dialect and translated into Spanish: the house mixed antipasto to share, fava macco with wild fennel, ricotta ravioli with pork sauce and ricotta cannolo. Book by phone. Closed on Tuesdays.

15:30 · Ragusa Ibla. About 25 minutes by car. Park in Ragusa Superiore, next to Santa Maria delle Scale, and walk down the stairs with Ibla in front of you. Walk to Piazza Duomo and go into the Duomo di San Giorgio, by Rosario Gagliardi, which opens in the afternoon from 16:00 to 18:30. Finish at the Giardino Ibleo and climb back up slowly.

19:00 · Return to Catania. About two hours by car. If you prefer not to drive at night, sleep in Modica.

With children

The chocolate tasting is what works best for them. In Ibla, the stairs are tiring on the way up: a baby carrier is better than a pushchair. The Giardino Ibleo is the place for them to run.