Corsica, mountains that drop into the sea.

Which part of Corsica should you choose?

Corsica is a mountain in the middle of the Mediterranean: peaks of over 2,700 metres a few kilometres from coves of crystal-clear water, stone villages in the valleys and a coastline that changes from red granite to white limestone. It is bigger than it looks and its roads are slow, so in a week it is best to pick one or two areas and not try to go all the way round.

• The west, between Calvi and Ajaccio, for the most spectacular coast: the Calanques de Piana, red rocks above the Gulf of Porto, and the Scandola reserve, which you see from the sea on the boat trips leaving from Porto and Calvi.
• The south, around Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio, for turquoise beaches and the citadel of Bonifacio, perched above white cliffs facing Sardinia. It is the busiest area in summer.
• The north, Cap Corse and the Agriates, for fishing villages, Genoese towers and unspoilt beaches such as Saleccia, which you reach by boat from Saint-Florent or along a track.
• The centre, around Corte, for the mountains: the Restonica valley, with glacial lakes a few hours' walk away, and the heart of the island, less touristy and cheaper.
• The GR 20, if you come to walk: about 180 km from north to south along the ridges, a demanding high-mountain trail. It calls for experience, good fitness and booked huts.

For a first week, combine the west with the south, or the north with the centre. With ten days you can join up three areas without living in the car.

How do you get there from Spain?

By ferry, the way to bring your car or motorbike. From Spain, the closest departure is Sète, a little over two hours from La Jonquera, from where Corsica Ferries sails to Ajaccio and L'Île-Rousse. From Marseille sail Corsica Linea, to Ajaccio, Bastia, Propriano and L'Île-Rousse, and La Méridionale, to Ajaccio and Porto-Vecchio. Corsica Ferries also sails from Toulon and Nice, and from Italy, from Livorno and Savona to Bastia.

By plane, the island has four airports: Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Figari, the last near Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio. Direct routes from Spain change from one season to the next and don't always exist: if there is no flight from your city, fly to Marseille or Nice and continue by ferry or on a domestic flight. Choose the airport by the area you are going to cover: between Bastia and Bonifacio it is about three hours by road.

How do you get around?

By car or motorbike, and without hurrying. The coast and mountain roads are narrow, with endless bends, and often shared with loose cows and pigs. Allow an average of 40 or 50 km an hour and don't plan more than two or three hours of driving a day. Outside the towns public transport is scarce.

In the west and the south, several of the best things are seen from the water: Scandola, the Calanques de Piana or the cliffs of Bonifacio. Boat trips leave every day in season from the nearby ports.

When to go and what does it cost?

May, June and September are the best months: the sea is already mild, the mountains are free of fierce heat and ferries and hotels have room. October is still good for walking. In July and August the island fills up, car ferries are full weeks ahead, prices rise and on the GR 20 the huts have no places without a reservation. From November to March many hotels, campsites and coastal restaurants close.

Corsica is expensive: accommodation and food are above the French average, especially in Bonifacio, Porto-Vecchio and Calvi in summer, and you have to add the ferry with the car. The interior, around Corte, is considerably cheaper, and campsites are a good way to trim the budget.