Hotel Porto Roca
Why we like it: Four-star hotel in Monterosso, on the rocks at the end of the village, with an infinity pool facing the sea, its own beach in summer and direct access to the Sentiero Azzurro.
Duration2 nights
From MadridDirect flight to Pisa and train
From BarcelonaDirect flight to Genoa and train
Best timeApril – June · September – October
BookingVia dell'Amore, pesto workshop and dinners
The plan
The plan, hour by hour
Designed to fly on a Friday morning and return on Sunday afternoon, from April to October. You sleep both nights in Vernazza, in the middle of the line; if you prefer more services, swap for Monterosso, with a beach, or Manarola. Avoid having Saturday or Sunday fall on a Tuesday or Wednesday, the closing days of the restaurants in the plan.
Friday
- 108:00Flight and train to the coast
A direct flight from Madrid to Pisa or Barcelona to Genoa, and a train to Vernazza, changing at La Spezia if you come from Pisa.
- 216:00Arrival in Vernazza
Drop your bag at Albergo Gianni Franzi, with reception in the bar on Piazza Marconi, and get the Cinque Terre Treno Card at the station for Saturday and Sunday.
- 320:00Dinner at Trattoria Gianni Franzi
On the harbour square: stuffed anchovies, stuffed mussels and tegame alla vernazzana. Closed on Wednesdays.
Saturday
- 108:00Sentiero Azzurro from Vernazza to Monterosso
About two hours of coastal path, best done early. Go down to Monterosso beach and come back.
- 213:30Boat on line 02
From Monterosso heading south: Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggiore from the sea. It does not sail in a rough sea; then, take the train.
- 317:00Aperitivo at Nessun Dorma
At Punta Bonfiglio, facing Manarola: bruschette and a white wine from the coast. Slot by app.
- 420:00Dinner at Ristorante Belforte
In the tower of Vernazza, over the sea. Book and ask for the terrace. Closed on Tuesdays.
Sunday
- 109:00Via dell'Amore
Train to Riomaggiore and a half-hour walk along the cliff to Manarola, in a booked slot.
- 210:30Pesto workshop with lunch
At Nessun Dorma: pesto in a marble mortar, lunch and a wine tasting. €85, in English.
- 314:30Return
Minibus to Groppo if you have time for the Sciacchetrà tasting; if not, train to La Spezia and back to Pisa or Genoa for the afternoon flight.
The Cinque Terre can be seen in a day, but are enjoyed with two nights. Early in the morning and at nightfall, when the full trains and excursion boats leave, the villages go back to belonging to those who live in them. This getaway flies on Friday, sleeps two nights in Vernazza and divides the coast into two days: the north on foot and by boat, the south with the Via dell'Amore, a pesto workshop and wine from the terraces.
How do you get there from Spain?
By plane and train; a car is no use on the coast. From Madrid there is a direct flight to Pisa (PSA), and also from Valencia, Seville, Málaga and Girona. From Barcelona, to Genoa (GOA). In Pisa, the PisaMover links the airport with Pisa Centrale in a few minutes and Trenitalia sells the combined ticket from "Pisa Aeroporto"; the train continues to La Spezia, where you change to the Cinque Terre regional. In Genoa, the Volabus takes you to Principe or Brignole stations, with regional trains along the coast towards Levanto and the villages. Allow half a day door to door.
Where to stay?
| Accommodation | Village | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Albergo Gianni Franzi | Vernazza | In the middle of the line, with reception on the harbour square; about a hundred steps, travel light |
| Hotel Porto Roca | Monterosso | With a pool, a beach in summer and the Sentiero Azzurro at the door; from age 14; dogs welcome |
| La Torretta Lodge | Manarola | A tower with terraces over the sea, no steps from the station; upmarket |
What if I have one more day?
Do the vineyard trail from Manarola to Volastra along the terraces, and go up to Groppo for the Sciacchetrà tasting without rushing. Or take the boat to Portovenere, which has no train.
With children
Swap the Sentiero Azzurro for the train and boat, and keep the Via dell'Amore, which is flat and short. The pesto workshop is free for under-6s and costs half from age 6 to 9. Remember that Hotel Porto Roca only admits over-14s; with children, better Gianni Franzi if they walk well, or La Torretta, which has no steps from the station.
Map
The stops, in order
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Plan the trip
Cinque Terre, step by step
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
When to go to Cinque Terre
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Best timeGood timeLow season
How you travel
The same break, your way
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Car-free: train, boat and trails
The Cinque Terre is one of the few places where a car is a nuisance. All five villages have a station on the La Spezia – Levanto line, a few minutes apart, and between them there are seasonal boats and trails. Sleep in one of the villages to start walking before the groups arrive.
110–350 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepAlbergo Gianni Franzi, in Vernazza…
- Getting aroundRegional train with the Cinque…
- Where to eatTrattoria Gianni Franzi, on Vernazza's…
- ServicesLa Spezia Centrale and Levanto…
Where to sleep
- Albergo Gianni Franzi, in Vernazza, with reception on the harbour square
- La Torretta Lodge, in Manarola, ten minutes' walk from the station
- Hotel Porto Roca, in Monterosso, with the Sentiero Azzurro at the door
Getting around
- Regional train with the Cinque Terre Treno Card, which includes the villages' minibuses
- Line 02 boat between Portovenere, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza and Monterosso
- On foot, along the Sentiero Azzurro, the Via dell'Amore and the vineyard trail
Where to eat
- Trattoria Gianni Franzi, on Vernazza's harbour square
- Ristorante Belforte, in Vernazza's tower, for a special dinner
- Nessun Dorma, in Manarola, for an aperitif
Services
- La Spezia Centrale and Levanto stations
- National park points at the stations, where the Cinque Terre Card is sold
Fly to Pisa or Genoa and take the train to the five villages
The Cinque Terre can be done without a car from the airport. There are direct flights from Madrid and other Spanish cities to Pisa, and from Barcelona to Genoa. From both airports you reach the city's station and from there take a regional train to La Spezia or Levanto, the two gateways of the line that stops at the five villages. Do not hire a car: the villages are pedestrianised and there is almost nowhere to park.
- Getting therePisa (PSA), with direct flights…
- Getting aroundThe Cinque Terre Treno Card…
- Where to sleepHotel Porto Roca, in Monterosso…
- ServicesPisaMover, from Pisa airport to…
Getting there
- Pisa (PSA), with direct flights from Madrid, Valencia, Seville, Málaga, Girona and the Canary Islands: the PisaMover takes you to Pisa Centrale in a few minutes, and from there the train leaves for La Spezia
- Genoa (GOA), with a direct flight from Barcelona: the Volabus goes to Principe and Brignole stations, and from there the regional train towards Levanto and Monterosso
- On Trenitalia you can get a single ticket from “Pisa Aeroporto”, with the PisaMover included
Getting around
- The Cinque Terre Treno Card: unlimited train travel between La Spezia, the five villages and Levanto, with the paid trails
- The line 02 boat, from spring to autumn, between Portovenere, four of the villages and Levanto
- Taxi from La Spezia Centrale if you have large suitcases for Manarola
Where to sleep
- Hotel Porto Roca, in Monterosso, with paid transfers from airports and stations
- La Torretta Lodge, in Manarola, ten minutes' walk from the station and without steps
- Albergo Gianni Franzi, in Vernazza, if you travel light: about a hundred steps
Services
- PisaMover, from Pisa airport to Pisa Centrale
- Volabus, from Genoa airport to Principe and Brignole
- La Spezia Centrale and Levanto stations, with trains to all the villages
How much does it cost?
People2
Nights2
Where to stay
Where to stay without a carif you're flying
We show you what suits the way you travel.Change how you travel
La Torretta Lodge
Why we like it: Guesthouse with rooms and suites inside an old tower in the centre of Manarola, with terraces over the sea and the vineyards, about ten minutes' walk from the station.
From €400
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Albergo Gianni Franzi
Why we like it: Family albergo in Vernazza's old town, with balcony rooms over the gulf, a garden on the cliff and breakfast on a terrace above the sea; reception in the trattoria on the square.
Where to eat
Where to eat in Cinque Terre
Nessun Dorma
What to order: a bruschetta with tomato or a board of cured meats and cheeses, with a glass of Cinque Terre white or a limoncino spritz
Aperitif only; you cannot book a table, you take a turn with its app or with the ticket at the bar. Closed on Tuesdays
Trattoria Gianni Franzi
What to order: the anchovies in their three versions (stuffed, salted and with lemon) and the tegame alla vernazzana, the village's stew of anchovies and potatoes
Closed on Wednesdays and from 10 January to 10 March. Outside tables, in the square, from spring to mid-autumn
Ristorante Belforte
What to order: the tagliolini al nero di seppia with prawns or the tagliatelle all'aragosta, which the house recommends, and for dessert the pan-sautéed strawberries with ice cream
Closed on Tuesdays. Closed for holidays until March 2027. Book ahead, especially the lovers' table
Questions
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a car?
No. The villages are pedestrian; you arrive by train and get around by train, boat and on foot.
Which airport should you fly to?
To Pisa from Madrid and other cities, or to Genoa from Barcelona. From both you continue by train.
What do you need to book?
The Via dell'Amore slot, the pesto workshop, dinners and accommodation, with weeks of leeway in season.
When is the best time to go?
From April to June and in September and October. In winter some restaurants close and the boat does not sail.