Viterbo and Villa Lante: the city of the popes and its hot waters.

Viterbo is the capital of the Tuscia, the north of Lazio, an hour and a half from Rome. In the 13th century it was the city of the popes, and its palace with the Gothic loggia and an entire medieval quarter of grey stone tell the story. Around it, a few kilometres away, are one of the most beautiful gardens of the Renaissance, Villa Lante, a wood of stone monsters at Bomarzo and thermal waters that come out very hot and fill outdoor pools all year round.

What can you see in a day?

In the morning, Viterbo. Start with the Palace of the Popes, next to the cathedral of San Lorenzo, where the longest conclave in history was held, and its museum. Continue through the San Pellegrino quarter, with houses with outside staircases, arches and towers, as far as the Fontana Grande. Two or three hours.

At midday, Villa Lante, in Bagnaia, 5 km away. A terraced garden down which the water flows, from fountain to fountain, to a square pool, with two twin small palaces and a park of holm oaks. An hour and a half. Note: it closes on Mondays, and from November to March on Sundays it opens only in the morning.

In the afternoon, hot water. The thermal pool at the Terme dei Papi, on the outskirts, is filled with water from the Bullicame spring. It opens by day until 19:00 and at night from 21:00 to 1:00.

If you have a second day, or prefer to change something, the Park of the Monsters at Bomarzo, about 20 km away, is a 16th-century wood with giants, an ogre and a leaning house carved into the rock. Children love it, and so do the adults.

How do you get there from Rome?

By car, which is recommended for this area: along the Cassia bis to Vetralla and the Orte–Viterbo expressway. About an hour and a half from the centre of Rome. Viterbo has a walled centre with restricted access: park outside the wall or at your hotel.

By train, regional trains leave Roma Ostiense and arrive at Viterbo Porta Fiorentina, next to the wall. They are slow and, once there, for Villa Lante, Bomarzo or the hot springs you need a local bus or a taxi. Without a car, the reasonable plan is Viterbo city and the hot springs.

From Spain, fly to Rome Fiumicino and hire the car at the airport: it's a little over 90 km.

One day or one night?

It can be done in a day, but with a night the plan improves a lot: Viterbo and Villa Lante on the first day, a thermal bath in the evening and Bomarzo the next morning before heading back. For sleeping, the Hotel Niccolò V is inside the Terme dei Papi, and the Mini Palace Hotel, 200 metres from the centre, has parking. If you want more days in the area, Civita di Bagnoregio is about half an hour to the north and Orvieto a little further.

Where to eat?

Il Richiastro, in the Mazzatosta palace, has served medieval Viterbo cooking since 1981: sauces for bread, homemade pasta and spiced wine; call to confirm the hours. At the hot springs, Aqvamadre opens from Wednesday to Sunday, and the bistro every day at lunchtime.