Pizzarium Bonci

Pizza by the slice next to the Vatican

Pizzarium is Gabriele Bonci's place at Via della Meloria, 43, in the Prati district, about five minutes' walk from the exit of the Vatican Museums and the Cipro metro stop. It is a counter with trays of pizza by the slice (pizza al taglio) that change through the day: tall, crisp, long-fermented dough with seasonal ingredients. You ask for a portion, they cut it with scissors, it is weighed and you pay by weight. There is also supplì, the Roman rice croquettes with melted cheese inside.

It is not a restaurant: there is little space and you almost always eat standing up or on the pavement. That is why it works so well as a quick lunch between the Vatican Museums and the dome of St Peter's.

When to go

It is open Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 22:00, and on Sundays from 11:00 to 15:00 and from 17:00 to 22:00. At lunchtime a queue forms, especially when the groups come out of the Vatican; between 15:00 and 18:00 it is quieter. No booking.

If you are not going to Prati

Bonci has two other counters that you can catch in passing: one at Termini station, on the ground floor opposite platforms 1 to 3, open every day from 7:00 to 21:30, and another on the second floor of Terminal 3 at Fiumicino. If you arrive on the Leonardo Express or are heading off on a day trip by train, it is the easiest way to try it.