A Sunday in Galaxidi, the captains' village with a guide, two and a half hours from Athens.

Galaxidi is often seen as an appendix to Delphi. This Sunday puts it in the centre: a three-hour guided walk through what does not appear in the harbour photos, the pine forest that runs down to the sea, the last shipyard still working and the ancient walls, then the museum that explains why this small village had one of the great sailing fleets of Greece, and a long lunch in a family taverna on the quay. Delphi lies on the way back, to see the tholos in the afternoon light.

The day, hour by hour

6:15 · Leave Athens. You have to get up early: the walk starts at 9:00. Lamia motorway to Livadia, the Arachova and Delphi road, and down to Itea. Park at the entrance to the village and walk to the harbour.

9:00 · Guided walk through the pine forest and coast. The meeting point is Mama Square, by the harbour. The Trekking Hellas guide covers the pine forest east of the harbour, the old harbour, the last shipyard still working and the remains of the ancient walls of Oiantheia. It is three hours over flat terrain, in English. It costs from €50 per person in a group of four to seven, €60 with three and €75 with two; minimum age, eight. Bring swimwear in summer: the path passes coves.

12:15 · Nautical and Historical Museum. A few minutes away, by the harbour. Founded in 1928, with the largest collection of ship paintings in Greece, figureheads and the Chronicle of Galaxidi. €3; open Tuesday to Sunday until 15:00.

13:30 · Lunch at Taverna Porto. On the Mama Square quay, in a nineteenth-century building whose upper floor was the village's first hotel. Taverna Porto belongs to Sofia, who does the home cooking, and Hercules, who runs the grill: grilled sea bream and sardines, lamb chops, pasta and home-made desserts. Book by phone.

15:30 · Agios Nikolaos. Climb to the church of the patron saint of sailors, at the top of the village, for the view over the rooftops and the gulf.

16:30 · The Castalian Spring and the tholos. On the way back, at Delphi, stop at the tholos of Athena Pronaia, which can be seen from the road, and at the spring where pilgrims purified themselves.

17:30 · Back to Athens. Via Arachova; you arrive around 19:45.

With children or in the rain

The walk admits children from eight and is flat. If it rains, swap the pine forest for the museum at leisure and a long after-lunch by Porto's fireplace, which they light in winter. If Porto does not open, Maritsa, at Pera Panta, opens every day.