Central Greece, Delphi, Parnassus and the Byzantine monasteries.

Central Greece, the Sterea Ellada of the Greeks, is the strip of land that runs north from Athens, between the Gulf of Corinth and the Euboean Sea. For anyone travelling from Spain it has a name that explains it all: Delphi, the sanctuary of the oracle of Apollo, on the slopes of Mount Parnassus. Around it there are real mountains, with snow in winter, stone villages, olive groves that run down to the sea and a Byzantine monastery that is a World Heritage Site.

What is there in Central Greece?

• Delphi, about two and a half hours from Athens. The sanctuary of Apollo on terraces, with the temple, the theatre and the stadium; the museum with the bronze Charioteer; the Castalian Spring and the tholos of Athena Pronaia.
• Arachova, about 10 km from Delphi, a village of stone and red roofs hanging on Parnassus, a base for skiing in winter and a stop for lunch or a coffee the rest of the year.
• Osios Loukas, near Distomo, one of the three Greek monasteries on the UNESCO list, with 11th-century mosaics on a gold background.
• The Amfissa olive grove, the sea of olive trees in the Pleistos valley, which you can walk down from Delphi along the old path towards Chrisso and Itea.
• Galaxidi, the sea-captains' port on the Gulf of Corinth, half an hour from Delphi, for those who want the sea after the ruins.

How do you get there from Spain?

By flying to Athens, with direct flights from Madrid, Barcelona, Málaga and other cities. From the airport, Delphi is about two and a half hours by car, along the motorway towards Lamia and the Livadia and Arachova road. Without a car, KTEL Fokidas buses leave from Liosion station, not Kifisos, in central Athens and take about three hours, stopping at Arachova.

Do you need a car?

For Delphi alone, no: the bus drops you on the main street and everything is done on foot. To combine Delphi with Osios Loukas, Arachova or Galaxidi, yes: buses between villages are few and the monastery closes at 15:30. The practical option is to pick up the car at Athens airport on your way north and not take it into the city.

How much time do you need?

Delphi can be done in a day from Athens by car, with five hours on the road. With one night everything changes: you see the sanctuary at opening time, without groups, and have time left for Arachova and the old path among the olive trees. Two nights let you add Osios Loukas and Galaxidi without a rush, or carry on towards Meteora, in Thessaly, about three and a half hours to the north: Athens, Delphi and Meteora is the classic three-day circuit through mainland Greece.

When to go?

In spring and autumn. In April and May the valley is green and the temperature is right for climbing the slope up to the sanctuary; in September, October and November the light is good and there are fewer people. In July and August go in at opening time, at 8:00, and leave the museum for the hot hours. In winter the sites close at 15:30, the first and third Sunday of each month from November to March are free, and Parnassus has snow: Arachova fills with skiers at weekends.

How much does it cost?

Delphi costs €20 with the museum and Osios Loukas, €10; EU citizens under 25 usually get into state-run sites free with their ID. Sleeping in Delphi is cheaper than in Athens: there are simple hotels on the main street and some with a pool and garden. A meal in a taverna is around €15 to €25 per person.