Thessaly, monasteries on top of the rocks.

What is there in Thessaly?

Thessaly is the great farming plain of central Greece, between Olympus and the Pindus. For the traveller it comes down to one place: Meteora, on its western edge, next to Kalambaka. They are towers of sandstone and conglomerate rising above the plain, with six Orthodox monasteries on their summits, founded from the 14th century onwards. It has been a World Heritage Site since 1988.

Meteora is well seen in two nights: one morning for two or three monasteries, another for the rest, an afternoon for the monks' paths and a sunset over the rocks. What we don't recommend is the day trip from Athens, with more than seven hours on the road.

It fits into almost any trip through the mainland: on the way between Athens and Thessaloniki, or as the first stop on a route west along the Egnatia, towards Zagori, in Epirus, an hour and a half from Ioannina, and from there to Corfu.

Kalambaka or Kastraki?

They are the two villages at the foot of the rocks. Kalambaka is the big one: bus station, more hotels and restaurants, better if you arrive without a car or are only sleeping one night. Kastraki is right up against the rocks, twenty minutes' walk from St Nicholas Anapafsas; it is quieter, the paths start from its streets and it has few beds, which fill up at weekends in season. There are campsites in Kastraki, some open all year.

How do you get there from Spain?

By plane to Athens, with direct flights all year from Madrid, Barcelona and Málaga, or to Thessaloniki, closer, with Aegean from Barcelona. From there:

• By car. From Athens, about 340 km and 3 h 35 by motorway; from Thessaloniki, about 225 km and 2 h 15; from Ioannina, about 100 km and an hour and a half. The motorways are tolled: carry a card or cash.
• By train and bus. The train no longer reaches Kalambaka: the line from Palaiofarsalos has been closed since the 2023 storm. Hellenic Train sells a combined ticket on the InterCity to Palaiofarsalos and its own bus on to Kalambaka, twice a day. From Athens it is about 5 h 30 and €28 to €31. Buy beforehand on the website or app: there is no ticket office at Palaiofarsalos or Kalambaka.
• By bus. KTEL Trikala links Athens and Thessaloniki with Trikala several times a day, and from there a bus leaves every hour for Kalambaka, 45 minutes away. From Athens, about 5 hours in total.

Which monastery opens which day?

This is the first thing to check. None is open every day and almost each closes on a different one: the Great Meteoron, on Tuesdays; Varlaam, on Fridays; Roussanou, on Wednesdays; the Holy Trinity, on Thursdays; St Stephen's, on Mondays; St Nicholas Anapafsas, on Fridays. Only on Saturday and Sunday are all six open. In winter they close on more days, and between November and March the Great Meteoron and Varlaam are only open on the same days from Saturday to Monday. The monks can change the timetable without notice, especially during Orthodox Holy Week.

There is a dress code and it is enforced: women, skirt below the knee and shoulders covered; men, long trousers. Nobody gets in wearing a vest top.

When to go and what does it cost?

April, May, September and October, with maximums of 20 to 30 °C. In June, July and August it goes above 33 °C: visit from 9:00 to 12:00 and leave the afternoon for the sunset. In winter maximums drop to 11–15 °C and the monasteries open fewer days.

It is a cheap destination. Each monastery costs €5 in cash, and under-12s don't pay: all six come to €30 per person. The paths and viewpoints are free.