Hydra, a car-free island two hours from Athens.

Hydra is a long, dry island in the Saronic Gulf where no cars or motorbikes run. Its only large village surrounds an amphitheatre-shaped harbour, with white houses and grey stone mansions of the shipowners who made the island rich in the 18th and 19th centuries and put their fleet at the service of the 1821 war of independence. Here suitcases go up by donkey, you reach the beach by boat and the streets are staircases. From Piraeus you get there by fast boat in a little over an hour.

How do you get there from Athens?

By fast boat from Piraeus. Hellenic Seaways' Flying Cats and Flying Dolphins normally leave from gate E8 and take between 1 h 05, non-stop, and 1 h 45, stopping at Poros. You reach Piraeus on metro line 1 from Monastiraki or, from the airport, on the X96 express bus. In summer buy your ticket in advance, especially the Sunday return. In strong wind the fast boats are delayed or cancelled: don't cut it fine on the way back if you have a flight that day.

What is there to do on Hydra?

First, walk the harbour and climb up to the captains' houses, along whitewashed stairs and walls with bougainvillea. On the quay is the Historical Archive and Museum, with figureheads, models and mementoes of 1821.

Then, the water. Beside the village there is no sand: at Spilia, beneath the cannons, you go down into the sea by ladders from the rocks, and from the quay water taxis leave for the coves. On foot, the coastal path to Kamini and Vlychos is the sunset stroll. If you have the legs, the climb to the Prophet Elias monastery, about 500 metres above the harbour, gives you the best view of the island.

A day trip or with a night?

You can come for the day from Athens, with the morning boat and the afternoon one, and see the harbour, swim and have lunch. But Hydra changes when the excursion boats leave: the harbour calms down, the terraces light up and the sun sets over the Peloponnese. With one night, the getaway to Hydra from Athens organises both days for you; if you only have one, follow the day trip to Hydra.

Where to sleep?

Hydra has mostly small hotels in old houses. The Bratsera, a sponge factory from 1860, is one of the few with a pool. The four-star Orloff has breakfast in the courtyard and suites in a 19th-century mansion. Cotommatae 1810 is the house of a family of captains 200 metres from the harbour. The Hydra Hotel, up the hill, has the view over the village, is open from April to 10 October and does not accept pets. Tell your hotel which boat you are taking: they will wait for you with a donkey for your suitcase.

Where to eat?

At lunchtime, the Bratsera restaurant, à la carte around the pool, with shade. In the evening, Téchnē, modern Greek cuisine in Avlaki bay, open in season from 17:00. At the harbour and in Kamini there are tavernas for something simpler.

How much does it cost?

Hydra is expensive for Greece: the village hotels are small and in great demand in summer, and eating at the harbour costs more than in Athens. The fast boat, return, is an important part of the budget. In return, you spend nothing on a car or parking.