La Fonda Moreno

La Fonda Moreno is at once a hotel, bar and restaurant, on Calle de Sant Nicolau, in the heart of Morella's old town. It is a family house that was completely renovated in 2006: the dining room has contemporary decoration and about 70 seats. The cooking, by contrast, is the same as ever in Els Ports: lamb, pork, local cured meats and hams, wild mushrooms and truffle.

Three menus, from €20 to €34

What sets the inn apart inside the wall is the price. It has a €20 menu, a €32 traditional menu and a €34 tasting menu, as well as the à la carte and a wine list. The website does not detail what each includes, so ask when booking which dishes they have that day. Everything, menus included, can be ordered to take away: handy if you are with small children, want to eat in your hotel room or prefer a picnic on the Alameda promenade.

Ternasco, partridge and collà

The menu gathers the Morella dishes that recur in the district's farmhouses. Ternasco Morella-style is the young lamb of the area. Morella soup and Morella croquettes are the two classics of Morella; partridge in oil and rabbit with almonds are the game and farmyard stews of old. In season there are saffron milk caps and other mushrooms. For dessert, ask for the collà, the milk curd made in these farmhouses, which the inn has as its house dessert.

Before you go: hours, dogs and celebrations

Neither its website nor the tourist office listing publishes the restaurant's opening hours, so call 964 16 01 05 to confirm it serves lunch or dinner on the day you go, especially on weekdays in winter. You can also book by email at [email protected]. The premises are accessible and admit dogs if you let them know beforehand, which is unusual among the dining rooms of the old town. The inn also arranges weddings, communions and other celebrations with menus made to measure for the group.

If you sleep upstairs, at the Hotel La Fonda Moreno, you can have dinner without going out into the street. The restaurant is the lunch stop of the Morella with the family plan, between the morning at the castle and the afternoon zip lines.