The Conchas de Haro and the Riscos de Bilibio

To the north-west of Haro, the Ebro enters La Rioja by cutting through the mountain at the Conchas, a gorge between the Obarenes hills and the Sierra de Toloño. Above it rise the Riscos de Bilibio, a ridge of rock with the hermitage of San Felices, the place where the Wine Battle is held every 29 June. The rest of the year it is a quiet spot, with one of the widest views in the Rioja Alta: the river leaving the canyon and winding through the vineyard, with Haro and Briñas in the background.

What you will see

The Conchas are a gorge of Cretaceous limestone that the Ebro has carved at its entry into the depression. The Government of La Rioja includes them among its singular geological sites: here a west-east fault makes the limestones of the sierra ride over the clays and sandstones of the valley, and the river's erosion has left the walls vertical, like a rampart, visible from afar.

The Riscos de Bilibio and their hermitage have a lot of history. According to the Town Council, there was first a Roman castle here and, at the end of the 5th century, San Felices, patron of Haro, and his disciple San Millán, who would later found the monasteries of San Millán de la Cogolla, lived here in retreat. A stone effigy of the saint crowns the hill. In 2014, the Repsol Guide chose this place as the best corner of Spain, thanks to the votes of readers.

Getting there

The crags are about 6 km from the centre of Haro on the LR-306 road, towards Villalba de Rioja, which leaves from the wineries district, beside the bridge over the River Tirón. By car it is about ten minutes; from Miranda de Ebro you can also get there by road.

On foot or by bike you can go along the tracks between vineyards from Haro, the same route taken by the pilgrimage each June. Allow about three hours there and back on foot from the centre, with little shade. The tourist office on Plaza de la Paz (941 303 580) gives maps and explains the most comfortable route.

Tips

The last climb to the hermitage is short but steep, with stretches of loose stone: bring outdoor footwear and water. In summer go first thing or at dusk, when the light over the vineyard is prettiest and it is less hot. With children it is an easy outing by car, but watch them at the top of the crags, which have a drop. Dogs can go up on a lead.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons: the vineyard green in May and June, and red and yellow after the harvest, in October. If you coincide with 29 June, be prepared: the crags fill with thousands of people dressed in white soaking themselves in wine.